Re: [xj-s] Buffing and oxidation of paint

["John T. Horner" <jthorner@garlic.com>]

-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Opausky <Opausky@netcom.ca>

<snip>

> Now I have to find out how can we keep this
>up

1)  Swear you will never go through an automated car wash again, then keep
you word.  All of the contact type car washes I've seen leave thin scratches
in modern clear coat paints.  These can generally be buffed out, but buffing
out always entails removing paint.

2)  Hand wash the car once a week and make sure to dry it with either lots
of clean cotton terry towel or clean chamis cloths.

3)  Keep a good quality (Megiuars, Zymol, Jaguar, etc.) wax protective coat
on the car with monthly hand waxings.   Use a paint "cleaner" or buffing
compound only when absolutely neccessary.    Every use of these takes a thin
layer away.

4)  Stay out of parking lots :).

5)  Park you car in a garage as much as possible.  The effects of natural
(tree sap, bird droppings, pollen, etc. ) and man made (acid, ash, etc.)
pollutants combined with the UV rays of the sun are the devil to painted
surfaces.


> and what happens when the clear coat starts to thin out.


Once the clear coat is burned through by the sun or though buffing it is
time for a new paint job.  The good news about clear coat is that it
protects the underlying color layers.  The bad news is that once it is gone,
it is gone and can't be replaced without doing a complete paint job.  Thanks
to a poor paint job at the factory and sunbelt conditions, our departed 1987
Taurus lost it's clear coat on the roof, trunk and hood at only six years of
age.  Ugly, very ugly.


John H.

1967 420G

---

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• Re: [xj-s] Buffing and oxidation of paint
• From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>

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