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[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] Re: Equalizing tanks - the FAQ
> > >Jag-lovers, > >Equalizing tanks is not an uncommon occurrance and can be a frustrating >experience. Here's my scope. Maybe Nick can put it up on the tech-list. >... >2. Disconnect the bullet connectors of the non return valve and apply a >voltmeter. When selecting the RIGHT tank, the LEFT valve should read >12V. If not, chek electricals first. Repeat for the right valve. If no >electrical problem, remove the non return valves as outlined above. Blow >AGAINST the direction of the black arrow. There should be NO leak. Now >blow in the other end (in the direction of the arrow) and activate the >solenoid by applying 12V. Again there should be an air tight seal. If >not, same advice and another $48.50.When testing these solenoids, DON'T >rely on a clicking noise. Most newer valves are completely quiet. Test >by blowing through the valve and applying 12V. Your discription of the electrics is either vague or incorrect. All three valves are two wire. All valves are powered in unison. The return valves not only are mirror image, there operation is reversed. The default (no power) for the system is left tank. Pushing the switch in applies power to all three valves. This closes the left tank and opens the right. Changeover valve- no power is left tank to pump. powered is right tank to pump. Left return. No power is open. Powered is closed. Right return. No power is closed. Power opens. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net References:
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