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[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] Re: [XJ6 s3 4.2] Non-starter - Part 5
> > >Nick, > >A simple test that I apply is to turn on the headlights. If there is good >juice you should get reasonable lights. Watch the lights while someone >turns on the starter. The real test is with a VOM (volt meter) with aligator clips on the leads. YOu need to have over 8 volts for the starter to function; preferably well over 8, like 10 or 11. This is with the motor activated. Set the meter in the windshield, propping it with a wiper blade, such that you can read it from the drivers set. With each test connection, key the starter and read the voltage. We'll move the probes around to isolate the bad connection/component. Meter connected to battery. Less than 8 volts, bad/discharged battery. stop. 10-12 go on. Meter connected negative to starter (mounting bolt is good), positive to the lower big lug of the solenoid; actual power into the motor. 10-12 means bad starter (stuck brush). Stop. bvelow 8, go on. Move positive to small screw wire (field wire). below 8 volts, bad relay, neutral switch, ign switch. 10-12 go on. Move positive to big top lug, battery in to solenoid. 10-12 v means bad solenoid. below 8 go on. Move negative lead to cylinder head. 10-12 means bad starter ground. Below 8 go on. Move negative to car body. 10-12 means bad engine ground strap. else go on. Move negative to battery. 10-12 means bad main ground cable. Else... Inspect the two positive cables and clean everything. A common failure point is the main power distribution junction block. It's a bolt lug with multiple wires on it beside the battery. Hard to test this particular area as there are several wires stacked... and a bad connection can happen any where in the stack. If the test proves it's either the solenoid or motor itself, try giving it a good thump. Sometimes a brush will stick during shipping/storage. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net Follow-Ups:
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