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XK120 Hood installation tips

XK120 Hood Installation

Has anyone personally installed a new top on a 120 OTS?  I am going to put
one on in the next week or so and am looking for any advice or tips that
would help. - Thanks Much, Jamie

Jamie, I have done two installations and have a copy of the instructions
which Bassetts sends with their tops. Two areas to watch: The fabric for
the rear window opening is cut only after the window and frame are fastened
in place. Stapling the top to the front bow requires two people, a good
pneumatic staple gun which shoots 3/4" wire staples, and a whole lot of
and stretching. The rest of it is fairly straight forward. I'll send you a
copy of the instructions or see you at the May 3rd, JOC Concours. -
Regards,  Dick Cavicke

Dick, Is there much difference between putting a new top on a 140 vs a 120.
I have to do a '40 this summer. - Regards, Klaus Nielsen

Dear Jamie, Have it done by a professional. Nothing looks worse than a
poorly fitting hood. Make sure the frame is straight and symmetrical. Mine
wasn't and when I lowered it the framework ruined the newly placed rexine
on the wheel arches. The hood isn't the easiest to raise or lower (more
like an old-fashioned tent!) and you really need four hands. Another thing
to watch out for is the rear window chrome piece.....if not careful it will
scratch the paint when folding downwards. You can place 4 small rubber
bumpers on the inside chrome frame. Don't forget the rubber seal on top of
the windshield. Place lots of bubble-plastic on the body to protect it from
all the pulling, pushing and stretching needed. Good luck. - Allan Derry

Klaus, To the best of my knowledge, the later 120 OTS tops with a fold-up
rear window curtain are identical to the 140 OTS. Jamie, Another item to
watch for on the front bow. In order for the pin beading to cover the
staples, they must be positioned with a reasonable amount of symmetry. I
resorted to professional help for the front bow in both of my installations
mainly because I needed the extra hands and besides, my electric staple gun
didn't have enough power and wouldn't handle the light-gauge long wire
staples. (Using (original) tacks briefly crossed my mind but I managed to
ignore it.) Allan Derry's caution about the hazards to the paint when
lowering or raising the top are well taken. Rubber "buffers" (Part Number
2179) 4ea, for the back light frame are listed in the parts book (p.79A)
for all steel bodied OTS. However, even with the buffers in place, the
scratch hazard still exists. Placing a large bath towel on the rear deck
beneath the window will preserve the paint and keep your blood pressure
under control. Removing the top completely is another solution. - Dick

Klaus:  I think the 140 OTS top is close to identical to the late 120s. -
Regards, John Elmgreen

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