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XK120 Hood InstallationHas anyone personally installed a new top on a 120 OTS? I am going to put one on in the next week or so and am looking for any advice or tips that would help. - Thanks Much, Jamie Jamie, I have done two installations and have a copy of the instructions which Bassetts sends with their tops. Two areas to watch: The fabric for the rear window opening is cut only after the window and frame are fastened in place. Stapling the top to the front bow requires two people, a good pneumatic staple gun which shoots 3/4" wire staples, and a whole lot of pulling and stretching. The rest of it is fairly straight forward. I'll send you a copy of the instructions or see you at the May 3rd, JOC Concours. - Regards, Dick Cavicke Dick, Is there much difference between putting a new top on a 140 vs a 120. I have to do a '40 this summer. - Regards, Klaus Nielsen Dear Jamie, Have it done by a professional. Nothing looks worse than a poorly fitting hood. Make sure the frame is straight and symmetrical. Mine wasn't and when I lowered it the framework ruined the newly placed rexine on the wheel arches. The hood isn't the easiest to raise or lower (more like an old-fashioned tent!) and you really need four hands. Another thing to watch out for is the rear window chrome piece.....if not careful it will scratch the paint when folding downwards. You can place 4 small rubber bumpers on the inside chrome frame. Don't forget the rubber seal on top of the windshield. Place lots of bubble-plastic on the body to protect it from all the pulling, pushing and stretching needed. Good luck. - Allan Derry Klaus, To the best of my knowledge, the later 120 OTS tops with a fold-up rear window curtain are identical to the 140 OTS. Jamie, Another item to watch for on the front bow. In order for the pin beading to cover the staples, they must be positioned with a reasonable amount of symmetry. I resorted to professional help for the front bow in both of my installations mainly because I needed the extra hands and besides, my electric staple gun didn't have enough power and wouldn't handle the light-gauge long wire staples. (Using (original) tacks briefly crossed my mind but I managed to ignore it.) Allan Derry's caution about the hazards to the paint when lowering or raising the top are well taken. Rubber "buffers" (Part Number 2179) 4ea, for the back light frame are listed in the parts book (p.79A) for all steel bodied OTS. However, even with the buffers in place, the scratch hazard still exists. Placing a large bath towel on the rear deck beneath the window will preserve the paint and keep your blood pressure under control. Removing the top completely is another solution. - Dick Cavicke Klaus: I think the 140 OTS top is close to identical to the late 120s. - Regards, John Elmgreen
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