BW-66 Delayed Upshifts Solved
I had previously mentioned that the BW-66 in my '81 XJ6 would not upshift from 1st to 2nd when cold. Only after driving ~1/2 mile would it finally shift, and then almost immediately into 3rd and would then not downshift without the use of the shift lever. After the engine/transmission warmed up, the transmission operated as expected. These symptons seemed to indicate a sticky governor.
I pulled the governor last night to examine and clean it. [NOTE: there is a right way and wrong way to install the governor on the ourput shaft (learned this the hard way last year). Carefully note which side is rearward, i.e., the side with the opening faces to the rear.] There was no significant wear, but the flyweight action was sticky, requiring that it be pushed lightly by hand to get it to move. I disassembled all components of the governor, carefully cleaned them with clean Type FA ATF and a lint-free rag, and reassembled them. After assembly, gravity at ~45o was sufficent to cause the flyweight to move. After reinstalling, the transmission now shifts normally. The clearances on the governor sliding surfaces are very tight and an essentially imperceptible piece of grit most likely was retarding the free movement of the flyweight.
The task took about 3 hours, but I have done related transmission work on all my Jags so I am perhaps a bit faster than the usual shade tree mechanic. The only special tools I used were my self-designed wood beam engine support and a short wood 2" x 4" with a hole drilled in the middle to allow easy removal and installation of the rear motor mount with my floor jack.
B. J. Kroppe says:
Great post. Did you have to undo the spring tension on the rear transmission mount? When I installed my rear mount on the transmission (out of the car) last summer, it was a bear, and not fun.
Any good tips on how to wrestle with this?
The following is a description I have sent to two other interested parties re my governor repair. As far a replacing the rear mount, it is very easy if you use a floor jack and a short 2x4 with a hole in the center to raise the mount to the underbody. This way it is a breeze. I have tried it the other, i.e., manual, way and yes it is a bear. Peter Hamel wanted to know if he could do this job in the street. My response includes this question.
Let me start off with a recommendation. Ignore this if it does not apply to
you. Buy a copy of (1) the factory repair manual, (2) factory parts manual,
and (3) factory wiring diagrams. If you own a Jag and plan to do much of
your own work, you will use all of these many times. Each can be purchased
from the aftermarket. Total cost might be $100-150, but you will save that
many times over. The Haynes manual is definitely not a substitute for any
of these. In fact, I never open my Haynes manual. The reasons you should
buy these are (1) the factory manual describes how to remove the governor
(and many other useful things), if somewhat cryptically, (2) the parts book
shows a blowup of the governor, how it should be positioned, accompanying
bolts, seals, etc., and (3) well, this is a Lucas-equipped car. But on to
your question. The following is my recollection of last night's work and
the 4 or 5 other times I have worked on transmissions in my Jags, but use
your eyes and judgment as you proceed since I may have missed a step.
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