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2.10 - Oil system ( )

2.10.1 - Oil and Filter Change ( Paul Stow,  December 10, 2001 )

Warm the engine through to thin the oil and ensure any particles are not sitting in the bottom of the sump.

Raise the car to gain access and, after placing a suitable container underneath, undo the sump drain bolt at the rear of the sump. When the flow has stopped, clean the bolt, copper washer and mating surface on the sump, and refit. It needs to be snug but not overtight. Leaks are usually cured by fitting a new washer.

Use a strap wrench or similar tool to undo the oil filter. Be aware the filter will contain oil, so keep your container underneath. Clean the mating surface on the engine block and use a finger to spread a thin layer of oil over the rubber sealing ring of the new filter.

Screw on the new filter until snug, then tighten approximately a further quarter turn. Hand pressure is normally adequate for this, but if you do decide to use a strap wrench, fit it close to the base of the filter such that you do not deform or damage it in any way.

Good oil filters feature an anti drain back valve which prevents oil draining back into the sump whilst the engine is stopped and therefore provides quicker lubrication when the engine is started. The valve can normally be seen as a piece of plastic behind the holes in the base of the filter. Jaguar and Fram filters are known to have this valve.

2.10.2 - Oil Cooler Bypass ( Paul Stow,  December 10, 2002 )

Some markets require a separate oil cooler to be fitted, the feed for which comes from the block beneath the oil filter. Where an oil cooler is not required, a bypass is fitted, consisting of a small 180 degree steel hoop-shaped pipe, again fitted next to the oil filter.

The connection is sealed by small rubber O-rings which do fail over time and produce an oil leak.

Replacement requires only unbolting and removal of the bypass pipe to gain access.

2.10.3 - Oil Pressure Sender ( Paul Stow,  December 10, 2001 )

The sender is located on the side of the engine block, underneath the inlet manifold toward the rear, and can be identified by the large diameter fixing nut. Removal is simple once you have access. On replacement, Jaguar recommend that a thread sealer such as Loctite 562 be applied to the exposed threads once the sensor has been screwed in by a thread.

Early X300's had a true pressure sensor, which is prone to erratic readings as a result of the carbon track of the potentiometer wearing out. Because of this, and customer concern over reduced oil pressure at idle, which is perfectly normal, later X300's and dealer repaired early models had a simple pressure switch fitted instead. This is linked with software reprogramming the instrument pack to cause the needle to sit either at the mid-point, or at zero dependent on the switch.


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