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Authenticity

Authenticity

As restoration proceeds I am faced with questions of originality and not
knowing what are acceptable limits i.e. is it acceptable to use any sort of
plated nuts and bolts or must plain steel be used (prone to rust in
Auckland's moist climate). Mention of hoseclips has me wondering if
worm-type ones are OK or are they "right out"? I am determined to try using
original brakes at first, set up as accurately as possible, before
considering a disc conversion. Back to bolts - I am ready to rebuild all
suspension assemblies and would like to use plated bolts - can a concours
authority advise me please ? thanks - Phil Maurice, OTS 673565

to phil,   gee whiz, if you are planning a conversion to disc brakes on a
120, why even question the use of non std bolts, i'd use the best available
if it were me.  but only for racing purposes. concours people have lately
challenged the use of non original bolts anything else i can be
???helpful??? with - regards bernie yurt

Phil M,  What is "acceptable" is up to you, but you do mention concours: do
you  want to concours the car seriously? That is a daunting endeavour! If
so, you will have to stick to original. -  Regards, John Elmgreen

My opening comment is its your decision how fastidious you want to be about
Originality; some people get very heated about the pros and cons, and
unfortunately what is considered correct today, may be found to be wrong
tomorrow with the benefit of new research.  Also there are quite different
standards in USA, UK and Australia and I dare say NZ. As a National
Concours Director, and long time XK and E-type Originality judge I can
advise current standard in Australia. We presume a target of 100%
"Authenticity" which allows poor condition original parts to be replaced
with substitutes of either Jaguar or some reproduction manufacture, on the
basis if you can judge it to be not 100% correct, then it is penalised. Our
best cars in Australia score about 93.0 -95.0 using a similar type judging
system (but not the same) as in USA JCNA circles. Those who have looked at
US cars scoring 100.0 believe these cars are no better than our 95.0 cars,
with the discrepancy being in the fact we judge Complete Underside of car
whilst it sits about 18 inches off the ground on ramps, and of course
differing judging standards. There is however some accepted preferred ways
of finishing components, and for the various chassis nuts, bolts and other
fasteners that were originally only a normal un-painted and un-plated
blackened manufacturing finish, our best cars plate them using "black
zinc", which "looks" authentic whilst giving some protective finish to
otherwise unprotected steel. Some years ago all chassis bolts used to just
get the simple black-paint treatment, then horror of horrors we went
through a bright zinc or cadmium plating phase, with the now well accepted
Black Zinc. Quite a critical issue when cars are judged underneath! Both
TEX clamps and CHENEY clamps ARE Worm Drive type clamps, with the TEX ones
having the adjusting worm or screw housing able to be pivoted away from the
"thread" to allow quick release/adjust. Lets see what is the standards in
other countries. - Roger Payne

Thanks John, perhaps it is most practical to compromise - the issue of
plated bolts has been answered nicely ! - regards, Phil Maurice

If you have any questions or comments send e-mail to: ted@jag-lovers.org
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