[xj-s] Re: XJ-S Digest V2 #216

[Andreas <andreas@no.spam.mediaone.net>]

XJ-S Digest wrote:

> XJ-S Digest           Sunday, July 19 1998           Volume 02 : Number 216
>
> In this issue:
>
>     RE: [xj-s] Any magic to removing the Oxygen Sensors?
>     [xj-s] Re: Re: A/C  convert to R134a
>     Re: [xj-s] Dual drive water pump (was overheating)
>     [xj-s] 90 XJS for sale-needs head gasket
>     [xj-s] Re: Radiator surround foam
>     [xj-s] Torquing Bolts
>     Re: [xj-s] More lighting problems
>     [xj-s] Heads and valve seats
>     RE: [xj-s] Haynes for a 1991 XJ-S ...
>     [xj-s] Advice on purchase
>     RE: [xj-s] Advice on purchase
>     [xj-s] Fuel fires
>     Re: [xj-s] Re: A/C  convert to R134a
>     [xj-s] Re: Torquing bolts
>     [xj-s] Looking to Buy
>     [xj-s] O2 Sensor removal
>     Re: [xj-s] 16" Electric Fan Installation
>     [xj-s] Gano Filters
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 16:31:56 -0500
> From: "Derek Berquist" <dberquist@marmen.com>
> Subject: RE: [xj-s] Any magic to removing the Oxygen Sensors?
>
> That's right.  Thanks for making sure I wasn't understating my
> degree of noviceness.
>
> At least where _I_ can get a wrench in, on the right hand side
> a "pull" is giving me my desired anticlockwise turn.
> I guess on the left hand side that would be a "push."
>
> I really would be embarrassed if I had been tightening it the
> whole time!!
>
> Derek
>
> >
> > Just to make sure we are on the same page here, when you say
> > 'pull harder', you
> > are trying to turn the sensor anticlockwise, right?
> >
> > > I'm inspired by the wealth of information that is available.
> > I've obtained
> > > the
> > > Haynes manual, and even more valuable the "Experience in a
> > Book."  Plus I've
> > > been reading the exchanges here for the last week.  All this
> > has helped to
> > > give me a little confidence.  Any tips would be appreciated.
> > Even if the
> > > answer is "pull harder."
> > >
> > > '85 xj-s  60k
> > >
> > > Derek Berquist
> > > dberquist@marmen.com
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 17:51:09 -0400
> From: Harry Trafford <traff@ICON.HMSD.UFL.EDU>
> Subject: [xj-s] Re: Re: A/C  convert to R134a
>
> R12 turns to phosgene gas when it's in the presence of high heat(like a fire), or what my instructor in Air Force tech school termed, "Deadly" phosgene gas. They always emphasized the "Deadly" part. The EPA doesn't seem to support the allegations of the r406a people. While 406a is considered "acceptable" by the EPA, it contains 4% isobutane and 55% r-22. Barrier type hoses must be used in the presence of r-22. Since the guy that manufactures r406a is attempting to be in direct competition with r134a (so I read once), I (personally) would dismiss those caveats. I have absolutely no concerns with using 134a except that it doesn't cool as efficiently as r-12 in a conversion. As OEM, the cooling is fine because the condensers, etc are larger, and the system is "purpose built" for r134a.
>
> Harry
>
> - ----------
> From:   John Bertsche[SMTP:103136.3056@compuserve.com]
> Subject:        [xj-s] A/C  convert to R134a (real long)
>
> Message text written by INTERNET:traff@ICON.HMSD.UFL.EDU
> > 4 cans of 134a freon, an
> <
>
> FWIW, I recently read that there have been a number of fatalities caused by
> R134a being introduced into the passenger compartment through leaky
> evaporators. I've never heard of this happening with R-12 or it's
> substitutes like r406a.
>
> More info can be found at www.autofrost.com
>
>                                                         jb
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 19:19:38 -0400 (EDT)
> From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
> Subject: Re: [xj-s] Dual drive water pump (was overheating)
>
> On Thu, 16 Jul 1998, Kirbert wrote:
>
> > > operate the
> > > pump thru a timer and we have circulation. It might not be enough to go thru the
> > > entire system but its a start.
> >
> > Actually, it would make it through the whole system except for the
> > radiator.  Interestingly, I think we could fix this easily, too.  The
> > entire reason it returns to the radiator outlet is in order to get
> > enough pressure drop to flow coolant.  But we now have a pump in the
> > line!  So, forget about relying on water pump pressure to feed the
> > heater core, instead just turn on the pump whenever heating is called
> > for -- and replumb the heater core output to radiator INPUT.
> >
>
> This is a really neat idea.
>
> Also, there must be little electric water pumps for sale at the local RV
> store.  Maybe even the Northern catalog.
>
> John
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 19:51:59 -0400
> From: "Peter Cohen" <petercohen@unn.unisys.com>
> Subject: [xj-s] 90 XJS for sale-needs head gasket
>
> If there are any lurkers in Northern California who have been waiting for a
> cheap XJS, I saw the following ad in a local classified:
> 1990 Jaguar XJS, V12, red, loaded, new tires, beautiful, needs head gasket.
> $4,950 or best offer (925)736-2559.
>
> I suspect this car will be bought by someone who thinks a head gasket is a
> walk in the woods.  Wait until they try to get it off!
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 20:30:04 -0400
> From: "Peter Cohen" <petercohen@unn.unisys.com>
> Subject: [xj-s] Re: Radiator surround foam
>
> Re: Buying the A/C weatherstrip foam at Home Depot. What the local Home
> Depot had was 1 1/4" square by 42". I believe John (?) said 2 1/.4" by 42".
> Is it available in 2 1/4"?
>
> BTW, SICP was selling the foam for a pre HE for pennies a while back.  I
> bought one, just for grins. It has a British Leyend label on it.  It is 2
> 1/2" wide by 1/2" thick.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 16:39:04 +1000
> From: pjsmith <pjsmith@gil.com.au>
> Subject: [xj-s] Torquing Bolts
>
> I was recently reading something about torquing bolts and thought you
> might be interested if I reproduced it here:
>
> "When bolts are tightened they stretch.  Like a piece of elastic rope,
> it is the bolt's stretch that supplies the pressure to keep the engine
> components together.  However only about 10 percent of the torque
> converted into bolt stretch; about 90 percent of the applied torque is
> lost to friction.
>
> With that in mind two points emerge:
> 1.  "Giving it a nudge" is not worthwhile as 90 percent of the "nudge"
> is also lost in friction.
> 2.  With 90 percent of torque lost in friction, reducing this friction
> by only a small amount will significantly increase bolt stretch.
>
> To demonstrate this effect ACL manufactured a device to measure the
> stretch load in cylinder head bolts.  The device is portable and can be
> placed directly onto a cylinder block to give a realistic result.  As an
> example, let's look at a bolt from a popular six cylinder engine:
>         size:   M12 (12mm)
>         grade:  12.9 (high tensile)
>         washer: intergral with bolt head
> Stretch load at a torque of 115Nm:
>         clean & dry             2.1 tonnes
>         oil on the threads      2.6 tonnes
>
> Lubricating the threads gave us 23 % more bolt load but what would
> happen if we added oil under the bolt head?
>         Oil under the bolt head 6.4 tonnes
>
> Because this bolt has no washer, the relatively hard bolt head quickly
> welds itself to the soft aluminium of the cylinder head.  A drop of oil
> is enough to significantly reduce the friction under the bolt head and
> allow more torque to reach the thread.
>
> What about a bolt with a washer?
>         Size:   M10(10mm)
>         Grade:  10.9(medium tensile)
>         Washer:22mm diameter
>
> Stretch load at at torque of 84Nm:
>         Clean & dry                     3.9 tonnes
>         Oil on thread & bolt washer     5.5 tonnes
>
> With a washer, the washer fretted onto the aluminium leaving the hard
> bolt head to rotate against the hard steel washer (hence reduced
> friction).
>
> A summary of our testing is as follows:
> 1.  Threads and bolt heads, or nuts and washers should all be
> lubricated.
> 2.  A bolt designed to have a washer should not be used without one. "
>
> Now I am not an engineer so all that raises an immediate question -- if
> lubricating the thread and washer can increase the torque by up to 41 %
> doesn't that mean that the bolt is stretching a great deal more and
> doesn't that risk damaging aluminium threads?  Is this advice wise only
> on iron blocks?
>
> Regards Peter Smith
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:22:17 +1200
> From: Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz>
> Subject: Re: [xj-s] More lighting problems
>
> At 17:04 17/07/98 -0400, Jeff Peirson wrote:
> >.. when I press the hazard button, the rear right stoplamp won't
> >blink with the rest of them.  It's not the bulb or anything because it
> >comes on when I press the brake pedal.
> >I don't understand how that one light couldn't be lit.  Help?
>
> The hazard lights work the direction indicator bulbs, not the brake lights.
>
> >and...
> >
> >when I use the turn signals, the direction arrows in the dash only come on
> >for a second then don't come back on.
>
> It could be related to your problem above. Do both front and rear flashers
> come on?
>
> My XJ-S had similar symptoms (flasher warning light falshing once) when the
> A/C was on high.  It could have been a voltage drop somewhere, but I gave
> up looking for it and fixed the symptoms by opening up the flasher unit and
> adjusting (bending) the stop so that the warning light part of the relay
> would close with slightly less current.  It has worked fine since.
>
> good luck,
>
> Mike
>
> '75 XJ-S
> '73 E-type
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 20:14:55 +1200
> From: Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz>
> Subject: [xj-s] Heads and valve seats
>
> The HE heads and pistons for my E-type engine turned up, and I have pulled
> the valve gear out, and am cleaning up the heads.
>
> The A head appears not to have been touched, but the B head had gobs of
> silicone around the tappet block and exhaust manifold gaskets.
>
> The B head has centre punch marks around all of the valve seats.  It would
> appear that there has been a dropped seat at some point.  One of the
> pistons has a valve mark on it, but it is not clear whether that is a
> result of the previous dropped seat, or the event that caused the final
> demise of the engine (timing chain tensioner failure).  None of the valves
> were tight in their guides, but I will check them for trueness.
>
> The 6B inlet valve seat looks a little suspicious to me, as the carbon
> deposits appear to be cracked around the periphery of the seat (depite the
> centre punching) I will look at this more closely.
>
> Of other note, the half moon seals on both heads were still pliable, and
> not leaking.  The inlet valve stem seals on the A bank (original?) were
> pliable, but the seals on the B bank (replaced?) were brittle.  Perhaps
> these heads did not start life on the same engine?.
>
> I find the metric bolts and nuts to be a pain, as it is necessary to think
> twice before reaching for a spanner.
>
> regards,
>
> Mike Morrin
> '75 XJ-S
> '73 E-type
> '85 Heads + pistons
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 09:42:52 +0100
> From: "Craig Sawyers" <craig@sawyers.demon.co.uk>
> Subject: RE: [xj-s] Haynes for a 1991 XJ-S ...
>
> Hmm - works for me for some quirky reason.  BUT I got there by starting at
> www.haynes.com and navigating from there, first to the North America site
> and then onwards.
>
> Give that a whirl, and see what happens.  There is a list of ALL Haynes
> manuals.
>
> Craig
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From:   owner-xj-s@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xj-s@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf
> Of jim wood
> Sent:   17 July 1998 19:10
> To:     xj-s@jag-lovers.org
> Subject:        [xj-s] Haynes for a 1991 XJ-S ...
>
> Sorry to post this to the entire XJ-S list - please forgive!
>
> This is to the person who answered a query about whether Haynes had a
> booklet for a 1991 (or a 1993 ?) Jaguar XJ-S and answer was "no - go see
> <www.haynes.com/nal01.html#anchor654187>."
>
> I went there and this isn't the correct URL - would you please re-post it
> so that I can compare this with the one you have and see if I made a
> mistake copying it down ... ???
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Wood - San Antonio, Texas
> 1989 XJ-S Red HE V-12 Coupe
> First Place "Driven" / S. A. Jaguar Club's Annual
> "Alamo City Concours d' Elegance" 1997
> Fax: 210-826-1553  -  jasewood@juno.com

I found nearly all the Jaguar books I needed at Amazon.com for discount prices including Nigel's and Haynes.  Anyone have a line on the Shop manuals for 84' XJS VdP  (even used is fine if in good condition)
--
Andreas@mediaone.net
84' XJS VdP
Jacksonville, FL

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