Re: [xj-s] Head Pulling

["Craig Sawyers" <craig@sawyers.demon.co.uk>]

Neither of my heads had been taken off, and I was real pleased I'd pulled
the engine.  Both needed serious persuation with an 8lb hide hammer,
striking upward first at the back and then the front of the head.  At one
point my thoughs were going in the same direction as yours Kirkby, that some
puller tool would be necessary, but they started to give eventually.  Even
so, it must have taken me a good hour and then some to get each off.  What
found was that the holes and studs were coated with crud - yes, it looked
like solidified Barrs Leaks (aargh).  I cleaned the studs with wire brush
etc, and ran a drill (just held by hand!) down the holes.  There seems to be
a good clearance when they are clean, BUT the holes are stepped.  Large
diameter over the bottem 80% or so, and a smaller diameter at the top so it
locates accurately on the studs.

I have no idea how I would have tackled this in the car.  Might have tried
taking the weight on the lifting eyes using my hoist and then belting the
head in some sensitive positions with the said 8lb hide hammer to shock it
loose.

Good luck, Kirkby

Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: Kirbert <palmk@mailer.gadcomm.net>
To: xj-s@jag-lovers.org <xj-s@jag-lovers.org>
Date: 11 July 1998 07:03
Subject: [xj-s] Head Pulling


Got my A bank head off, which is the one with the dropped valve seat.
Got all the nuts off the B bank, but it's acting stuck.  I had the A
head off years ago, but I've never touched the B before; the one I
had apart came off with no trouble, including having nuts with
anti-seize compound making life easier, but the one I've never been
in before is being difficult.  I haven't really gotten serious yet;
as soon as I couldn't simply lift or pry it, I sprayed some Liquid
Wrench down the studs and called it a night.

I was thinking about the suggestion in my book for the SERIOUS
head-pulling tool made of a large steel plate with lotsa holes.  I
was wondering if a smaller version might just do the trick: a steel
bar 1/2" thick and perhaps one inch wide, with two holes for the cam
bearing studs and two threaded holes for the "pusher" bolts that line
up with the two main head studs at that location.  Two such tools,
one at each end of the head, should get all but the most stubborn
heads loose.  And if you could come up with seven such tools, you
should be able to apply the same amount of pullage that the large
single plate does.

What do you all think?

I was also wondering about simple prying.  I'm thinking about laying
a large Allen wrench in the V alongside the inner edge of the head,
and then inserting a big f___ing screwdriver -- er, pry bar -- OVER
the Allen wrench and into the freeze plug holes along that edge of
the head, and prying upward at that point.

-- Kirbert      |     If anything is to be accomplished,
                 |     some rules must be broken.
                 |          - Palm's Postulate

---

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