Re: [xj-s] distrib. o/h my exper.

[Jim Moore <jmoore@qualcomm.com>]

Thanks for the Comments Sean.

I used that same passage way, its pretty clear and with the cruise bellows
out access to number 1 is fine.

I too, used liquid paper, cause you really can't read the numbers easily.
So I marked 0, 12, 28 - from these marks you can just make out the other
marks once cleaned up (I lightly sanded the plate).

Inspection:
They really didn't want me back there, but I watched from a distance, and
he checks for the hose connections (no mods) basically the air control
valve from the thermal switch. Then revs her up and does the test. With the
o/h and setting I mentioned below, it passed, with room to spare. 

As for settings. I will take out the distributor once again, and replace
that heavy spring, it doesn't feel right at lower rpm's and that could be
it. I'll let you all know.

The timing I have now runs w/o ping using 93 octane. 

Again, thanks for the feedback.


At 12:04 PM 7/4/98 -0700, Sean Straw wrote:
>At 11:30 02-07-98 -0700, Jim Moore wrote:
>
>>Now the second thing that I'd like to have seen in the book and that is
>>about setting up the timing. OK, it's done at 3k, but to what reading with
>>a strobe underneath. (That's a trip, engine at 3k you under this thing with
>>a strobe light!!!!)
>
>I have an inductance lamp (if you have the old inline conductor style, time
>to get a replacement).  I feed the inductance lead up the driver side of
>the engine compartment and clip it to the #1 spark lead.  Clip the ground
>lead to a decent ground point (the bolt on one of the tow rings seems to
>work well), and put the hot lead on the output of the alternator (the
>bottommost pin).  The automobile should of course already be jacked and ON
>STANDS (BTW, I have a couple of short wood blocks with a large hole drilled
>in them so the weight doesn't rest squarely on the pins on the jacking
>points).
>
>Ensure your timing plate is nice and clean and readable.  Same goes for the
>mark (DAMN, I should have remembered to get in there with a wire brush
>while I had the belts out).  A daub of liquid paper should do a nice job of
>it.
>
>>My numbers (Calif) are:
>>w/o vacuum attached.
>>750 rpm	0
>>2000		10
>>3000		22
>
>Dunno about the first two numbers, but the 3K number is 4 degrees TOO
>advanced.  Aren't you getting knocking on this for-crap CA gas?
>
>Q: Does the smog inspector just run the numbers and peer under the hood, or
>do you at least get to watch him have to deal with measuring the timing
>(something they used to check with my GS)?
>
>>So before I take the distributor off for the third time (all due to the
>>mystery of the heavy spring), what's the thinking here?
>
>I think the general consensus is that all the people here have experienced
>that the heavy spring seems loose.  My belief at this point is that it is
>probably a travel restrictor and not an active spring.  Yea, I'm puzzled as
>to why they'd have different springs on it if the nylon stopwasher at the
>base of the rotor shaft is sufficient to stop the rotation.  When I had
>mine disassembled, it hadn't occurred to me to measure the travel WITHOUT
>the nylon stopwasher.  Perhaps the action of that spring would be noticed
>then?
>
>---                             <http://jaguar.professional.org/>
>Sean Straw                      '88 Jaguar XJSC 5.3L V12
>Marin County, California        '69 Buick GranSport 455 V8
>
>
>
Jim Moore
AI 106-L
Our customers make us possible
619 658-3996 office
619 650-8251 pager
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