Re: [xj-s] More Valve Seat Retention Ideas

[John Napoli <jgn@li.net>]

On Tue, 30 Jun 1998, Kirbert wrote:

> > From:          John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
> > I don't recall the temp range of the stuff (it is supposed to be
> > compatible with engine temps, but I would expect that to mean operating
> > temps and not combustion chamber temps).
> 
> I would suppose so, too, but what I'm suggesting is using this stuff 
> between the valve seat and the head.  That should be closer to 
> coolant temp than combustion temp, I think.
> 

True, but also Marine Tex is not a good conductor of heat.  Its a plastic,
not a metal.

> > A Loctite-type product should be better.  Of
> > course the key is to go with the best set of tolerances seat-to-head.
> 
> I have a feeling that's the way I'm going.  As long as I'm having a 
> new seat installed -- which I understand requires heating the head 
> and chilling the seat -- I may ask them to hang the head upright 
> while it's hot and spray some WD40 or some such onto the seats and 
> see how many hit the floor.

When you chill the valve seats, don't just stop with chilling them with
ice.  Go to your local dermatologist and fill up your thermos bottle with
liquid nitrogen.  It will last for hours if not days.  Pour it out into a
shallow pan and submerge the seats.  Heat the head in an oven.  Work
quickly and deliberately.  You can 'touch' liquid nitrogen without turning
into something that shatters -- the dermatologists use it to freeze skin
as part of simple surgical procedures -- as long as you don't get carried
away.  Use tongs or forceps to handle the seats, of course -- otherwise
you'll freeze yourself to them -- but don't worry if a drop or two of the
liquid spills onto your skin.

Don't do the test you described -- why abuse the assembly?

John

---

References:

• Re: [xj-s] More Valve Seat Retention Ideas
• From: "Kirbert" <palmk@mailer.gadcomm.net>

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