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E-Tool Bar Interested in buying an E-Type?  Get Educated. Photos of other E-Type owner's pride and joy. Other E-Type Site Links and Humor The Legacy of the E-Type Increase your E-Type's Performance with a few new Updates. Maintenance Tips for your E-Type

Maintenance Tips for your E-Type

Many following tech tips were compiled from the member's of e-type Digest from jag-lovers.org. There are no implied guarantees. These suggestions are from other XKE owners on how they solved similar problems or challenges and may illustrate varied and occasionally contradictory conclusions to the same problem. Please forward any questions, comments, criticisms, or suggestions to mhicks@mathe.com. Commercial use is strictly prohibited. ÓCopyright 2000 by Mark Hicks. Legal Restrictions

PAINT

Disclaimer - These paint conversion charts are for the convenience of those restoring or preserving their cars. The color matches are close but approximate. If the desire is to have a Concours quality vehicle, it is recommended you do expert color matching on the original vehicle color. Some conversions were done by Terry's Jaguar. (NOTE: - Paints and strippers are toxic by nature and potentially hazardous to your lungs. It is recommended you get the bet protection available. At a minimum use the 3M Paint and Finish Respirator facemasks, but a full face Scott catridge system is always best. Click here for a photo of the two options.)

Body Paint Color Chart

Clear-Coating Components

Component Color Chart

Paint Stripping Techniques

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Body Paint Color Chart

Color

Years Used

Modern Day Equivalent

Ascot Fawn

68-71

Dupont Lacquer 8536L*, Dupont Enamel 8536A

Azure Blue

72-end

Dupont Lacquer 42887L*, Dupont Enamel 42887AH

Beige

67-68

 

Black

61-67

 

Black

68-end

BC Number BLVC261, Dupont Lacquer 99L*, Dupont Enamel 99A

British Racing Green

61-64

 

British Racing Green

68-70

Dupont Lacquer 8542L*

British Racing Green

71-end

BC Number BLVC254, Dupont Lacquer 32500LH*, Dupont Enamel 32500AH

Bronze

61-64

 

Carmen Red

61-69

Dupont Lacquer 8311LH*

Claret

61-62

 

Cream

61-69

BC Number BLVC250, Dupont Lacquer 32501L*, Dupont Enamel 32501A 

Cotswold Blue

61-64

 

Dark Blue

65-end

Dupont Lacquer 8320L*

Fern Grey

72-end

BL Color BLVC253, Dupont Lacquer 42603L*, Dupont Enamel 42603A

Golden Sand

65-68

Dupont Lacquer 8318L*

Green Sand

72-end

BL Color BLVC252, Dupont Lacquer 42604L*, Dupont Enamel 42604A

Heather

72-end

Dupont Lacquer 43115L*

Imperial Maroon

61-62

 

Indigo

61-62

 

Lavender Blue

72-end

Dupont Lacquer 43116L*

Light Blue

68-72

 

Mist Grey

61-64

 

Old English White

70-end

BC Number BLVC250, Dupont Lacquer 32501L*, Dupont Enamel 32501A

Opalescent Dark Blue

61-64

 

Opalescent Dark Green

61-67

Dupont Lacquer 8314L*

Opalescent Gunmetal

61-64

Opalescent Maroon

63-68

Dupont Lacquer 8317LH*

Opalescent Silver Blue

61-68

Dupont Lacquer 8316L*

Opalescent Silver Grey

61-68

Dupont Lacquer 8315L*

Pale Primrose

63-end

BC BLVC251, Dupont Lacquer 8319L*, Dupont Lacquer 8319A*

Pearl

61-64

Regency Red

68-end

BC Number BLVC257, Dupont Lacquer 8538LH*, Dupont Enamel 8538AM

Sable

68-end

Dupont Lacquer 8540L*, Dupont Enamel 8540A

Sand

63-64

 

Sherwood Green

61-67

Dupont Lacquer 8312L*

Signal red

68-69, 71-end

BC Number BLVC258, Dupont Lacquer 8543LH*, Dupont Enamel 8543AH

Turquoise

72-end

 

Warwick Grey

65-72

Dupont Lacquer 8321L*

Willow Green

67-71

Dupont Lacquer 8323LH*, Dupont Enamel 8323A

* = Please note that Lacquers are illegal in certain parts of the USA. While closest to original, Lacquer paints do not stand up very well to temperature variation, and has a tendency to fade when exposed to sunlight. Modern eurethane paints are recommended, which will provide you with a beautiful, long lasting finish. There are a number of top quality manufacturers in the paint industry, and I will be adding sample color chips to this page and some non-Lacquer finishes soon.

Back to Main XKE Tech Tips Page

Component Color Chart

Component

Original Color

Modern Day Equivalent

Air Filter Drum

Black or Silver Hammerite depending on year.

Rust-oleum spraypaint Hammered Metal Finish in Silver or Gloss Black Krylon paint.

Air Filter Top Rim w/ clamps

Same as Air Filter Drum

Same as Air Filter Drum

Air Trumpet (SI & SII) & top rim of Air Filter Drum

Silver hammerite finish.

Rust-oleum spraypaint Hammered Metal Finish in Silver. Easy to apply. Gives textured finish.

Bonnet Sheet metal screws, bolts, lock washers, hinge bushings,

Bright CAD plating.

Since CAD plating is hard to get today, artificial CAD painted or Zinc plated.

Bonnet Hold-downs - stationary and rotating

Bright CAD plating

Since CAD plating is hard to get today, artificial CAD painted or Zinc plated.

Bonnet locating receptacles & pins

Body color or clear CAD plating

Body color or clear CAD plating. Since CAD plating is hard to get today, artificial CAD painted or Zinc plated.

Bonnet Release Pulls

Bright CAD plating

CAD Plating. Since CAD plating is hard to get today, artificial CAD painted, Zinc plated, or Chrome is usually used.

Bonnet Safety catch

Bright CAD Plating

Most come in Zinc plating today

Bonnet Nuts/bolts and hardware. (Painted as a whole)

Body Color

Body Color

Bonnet vent at rear of bonnet

Satin Chrome

Satin Chrome

Bonnet Underside

Body Color

Body Color

Bonnet Gas Struts for SIII

Gloss Black

Gloss Black

Brake Master Cylinder Mounting Bracket (3.8L)

Silver hammerite finish.

Rust-oleum spraypaint Hammered Metal Finish in Silver. Easy to apply. Gives textured finish.

Brake Master Cylinder

Black or native cast iron

Gloss Black or leave natural

Brake Reservoir Heat Shield

Clear CAD Plating

Since CAD plating is hard to get today, artificial CAD painted or Zinc plated.

Cam (Valve Covers (SI)

Natural Polished Aluminum in Satin finish

N/A

Cam (Valve) Covers (SII)

Flat Black with natural aluminum ridges.

Flat Black spraypaint for woodstoves and tape or fine sand off paint on ridges. Let dry at least 24 hours before driving.

Clutch Master Cylinder

Black or native cast iron

Gloss Black or leave natural.

Cooling Fan Blades

Native Pot Metal

Native Pot Metal

Cooling Fan Body

Grey Hammerite

Rust-oleum spraypaint Hammered Metal Finish in Grey. Textured finish.

Cooling Fan Shroud

For 3.8L a pre-colored silver fiberglass or Silver hammerite over black.

Rust-oleum spraypaint Hammered Metal Finish in Silver. Easy to apply. Gives textured finish.

Cylinder Head

(High Compression)

Gold. Some metallic content. Used 61-68. Early 61s used a pumpkin gold color.

P/N #7884 from Martin Senour Paints. Cadillac Gold. May be available from Napa.

Engine Block

Semi-Gloss Black

Semi-Gloss Engine Black

Exhaust Manifolds

Natural or Black Enameled

Flat or Gloss Black spraypaint for woodstoves. Porcelain/Enamel finish tends to crack off.

Header/Overflow Tank (SI)

Silver/Grey hammerite finish

Rust-oleum spraypaint Hammered Metal Finish in Silver or Grey. Textured finish.

Heater Box & Motor

Gloss Black

Rust-oleum Gloss Black spraypaint

Heater Box Intake

Crinkle Black paint, Black, or pre-colored silver fiberglass depending on year.

Crinkle Black paint or semi-gloss Black paint. Or Silver.

Header Tank/Radiator Tie Bar

Machine Grey

 

Header tank supporting bracket (SI)

Silver hammerite finish

Rust-oleum spraypaint Hammered Metal Finish in Silver. Textured finish.

Heater Box Intake Bolt and washer

Body Color

Body Color

Heater Intake sheet metal screws

Bright CAD plating

Since CAD plating is hard to get today, artificial CAD paint or Zinc plating.

Intake Manifolds (SI & SII)

Natural Polished Aluminum in Satin finish

N/A

Oil Filter Canister (SII)

Green Hammerite finish

 

Stone Guard

Machine Grey

 

Torsion Bars (SI)

Black Enamel

Gloss Black spraypaint

Windshield Wiper Motor end

Native Pot metal

Native Pot metal

Windshield Wiper body

Grey Hammerite

Rust-oleum spraypaint Hammered Metal Finish in Grey. Textured finish.

 

 

 

 

Clear-Coating Components

Getting a good Clear Coating on Components that will not haze

I have experimented for years with various treatments, coatings and platings in the desire to achieve a fairly original, but more importantly, a more durable finish to the various component parts of E Types. When clear coating cast steel or aluminum, as you have done with your master cylinder, we experienced problems with clouding and oxidation developing between the metallic surface and the clear coat. Eventually we took our problem to the PPG tech department, who came up with the following recommendations regarding the procedure and materials we should follow/use:

Having first stripped the component part to raw metal, it should be thoroughly washed using an industrial wax and grease remover such as DX 330/440. Next it should be cleaned and prepared with DX 579 metal cleaner, diluted 1/10 with water. Next the part should be thoroughly rinsed with water. Next it should be treated with DX 501 metal cleaner, diluted 1/1 with water. Next it should be rinsed once again with water, before being force dried. Finally it should be topcoated with DAU 75 DELCLEAR, a clear coat purpose designed for use with steel, zinc and aluminum. By following this procedure, we have had fairly good luck in creating a very durable, original looking finish. The DAU 75 clear does not have the high gloss finish of most clear coats.

 

Paint Stripping Techniques

Stripping paint and materials from the body panels of your Jaguar

In the first instance, it is important to remember that some of the chemicals necessarily employed during this process are particularly hazardous to one's health. The 'Aircraft Stripper' is amongst the nastiest substances we use in the restoration industry.

Before embarking upon a project such as this, make sure you have a good pair of heavy duty, elbow length safety gloves, a pair of safety goggles, and a box of face masks. The operation should be carried out in an area where you have as much natural ventilation as possible, and you should take regular breaks from the task in order to avoid over exposure to the chemicals.

Your shopping list will include the following:

Heavy-duty safety gloves, preferably elbow length.

Safety goggles, preferably the kind with some side profile protection.

Ventilation masks. (NOTE: - It is recommended you get the bet protection available. At a minimum use the 3M Paint and Finish Respirator facemasks, but a full face Scott catridge system is always best. Click here for a photo of the two options.)

A selection of different sized wire brushes, some scotch pads, a box of cheap paintbrushes, and some 1.5 inch putty knives.

3 gallons of Aircraft Remover Klear Strip (PPG part number DX 586).

3 gallons of automotive wash grade lacquer thinner, such as Ditzler DTL 16.

The kind of thinner you can buy at your hardware store will be next to useless for this particular task.

1 gallon of DX 579 metal cleaner.

1 gallon of DX 520SG acid based detergent.

You should be able to achieve a 'one stop shop' for each of the above items by looking in your local yellow pages for an automotive paint supplier in your area. We happen to use a lot of PPG products, but many of the equivalent manufacturers also supply similar, high quality products.

Now that you have everything you need, you should begin following these simple procedures:

IMPORTANT! Read the instructions on the containers of every product you use. The directions are likely to differ between manufacturers, although the principles will be very much the same. As a general rule, try not to get too close to the aircraft stripper, as it gives off toxic fumes. NEVER smoke when using materials such as these.

 

Concentrating on a small area (approximately 1 or 2 feet square) at a time, liberally apply the aircraft stripper using a 2 inch paintbrush. Depending upon the ambient temperature (most body shop products are designed for optimum efficiency at about 70/80f) wait between 15 and 30 minutes, then begin scraping off the stripper using a putty knife. The stripper will bring with it layers of paint, primer and materials. Where there are a number of layers of paint, or excessive amounts of bondo, more than one application will certainly be required.

Once you have removed the vast majority of paint and materials from a significant area, such as a fender, or a door, etc, you should thoroughly wash the stripped area in water. This will help to neutralize the acids remaining on the surface. Any remaining residue of paint/materials should now be removed using lacquer thinner and Scotch pads or wheels.

The clean, bare metal is then scrubbed using Scotch-Brite pads and DX 579 metal cleaner. Next the panel should be thoroughly wiped down using DX 520SG, which will create an entirely corrosion free, primable surface. The panel should then be primed as quickly as possible using a high quality epoxy primer, such as PPG's DP 90 or 50, catalyzed with DP 402 catalyst.

Although this is an extremely unpleasant task, it is one of those where the home restorer can achieve perfect results himself/herself, without having to go to the expense of employing the services of a professional shop. I predict that mid-way through the task, however, you will begin questioning the wisdom of the undertaking, and start wishing you had employed someone else to do the job for you - whatever the cost!

 

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