Many following tech tips were compiled from the member's of e-type Digest from jag-lovers.org. There are no implied guarantees. These suggestions are from other XKE owners on how they solved similar problems or challenges and may illustrate varied and occasionally contradictory conclusions to the same problem. Please forward any questions, comments, criticisms, or suggestions to email@example.com. Commercial use is strictly prohibited. ÓCopyright 2000 by Mark Hicks. Legal Restrictions
Disclaimer - These paint conversion charts are for the convenience of those restoring or preserving their cars. The color matches are close but approximate. If the desire is to have a Concours quality vehicle, it is recommended you do expert color matching on the original vehicle color. Some conversions were done by Terry's Jaguar. (NOTE: - Paints and strippers are toxic by nature and potentially hazardous to your lungs. It is recommended you get the bet protection available. At a minimum use the 3M Paint and Finish Respirator facemasks, but a full face Scott catridge system is always best. Click here for a photo of the two options.)
* = Please note that Lacquers are illegal in certain parts of the USA. While closest to original, Lacquer paints do not stand up very well to temperature variation, and has a tendency to fade when exposed to sunlight. Modern eurethane paints are recommended, which will provide you with a beautiful, long lasting finish. There are a number of top quality manufacturers in the paint industry, and I will be adding sample color chips to this page and some non-Lacquer finishes soon.
Getting a good Clear Coating on Components that will not haze
I have experimented for years with various treatments, coatings and platings in the desire to achieve a fairly original, but more importantly, a more durable finish to the various component parts of E Types. When clear coating cast steel or aluminum, as you have done with your master cylinder, we experienced problems with clouding and oxidation developing between the metallic surface and the clear coat. Eventually we took our problem to the PPG tech department, who came up with the following recommendations regarding the procedure and materials we should follow/use:
Having first stripped the component part to raw metal, it should be thoroughly washed using an industrial wax and grease remover such as DX 330/440. Next it should be cleaned and prepared with DX 579 metal cleaner, diluted 1/10 with water. Next the part should be thoroughly rinsed with water. Next it should be treated with DX 501 metal cleaner, diluted 1/1 with water. Next it should be rinsed once again with water, before being force dried. Finally it should be topcoated with DAU 75 DELCLEAR, a clear coat purpose designed for use with steel, zinc and aluminum. By following this procedure, we have had fairly good luck in creating a very durable, original looking finish. The DAU 75 clear does not have the high gloss finish of most clear coats.
Stripping paint and materials from the body panels of your Jaguar
In the first instance, it is important to remember that some of the chemicals necessarily employed during this process are particularly hazardous to one's health. The 'Aircraft Stripper' is amongst the nastiest substances we use in the restoration industry.
Before embarking upon a project such as this, make sure you have a good pair of heavy duty, elbow length safety gloves, a pair of safety goggles, and a box of face masks. The operation should be carried out in an area where you have as much natural ventilation as possible, and you should take regular breaks from the task in order to avoid over exposure to the chemicals.
Your shopping list will include the following:
Heavy-duty safety gloves, preferably elbow length.
Safety goggles, preferably the kind with some side profile protection.
Ventilation masks. (NOTE: - It is recommended you get the bet protection available. At a minimum use the 3M Paint and Finish Respirator facemasks, but a full face Scott catridge system is always best. Click here for a photo of the two options.)
A selection of different sized wire brushes, some scotch pads, a box of cheap paintbrushes, and some 1.5 inch putty knives.
3 gallons of Aircraft Remover Klear Strip (PPG part number DX 586).
3 gallons of automotive wash grade lacquer thinner, such as Ditzler DTL 16.
The kind of thinner you can buy at your hardware store will be next to useless for this particular task.
1 gallon of DX 579 metal cleaner.
1 gallon of DX 520SG acid based detergent.
You should be able to achieve a 'one stop shop' for each of the above items by looking in your local yellow pages for an automotive paint supplier in your area. We happen to use a lot of PPG products, but many of the equivalent manufacturers also supply similar, high quality products.
Now that you have everything you need, you should begin following these simple procedures:
IMPORTANT! Read the instructions on the containers of every product you use. The directions are likely to differ between manufacturers, although the principles will be very much the same. As a general rule, try not to get too close to the aircraft stripper, as it gives off toxic fumes. NEVER smoke when using materials such as these.
Concentrating on a small area (approximately 1 or 2 feet square) at a time, liberally apply the aircraft stripper using a 2 inch paintbrush. Depending upon the ambient temperature (most body shop products are designed for optimum efficiency at about 70/80f) wait between 15 and 30 minutes, then begin scraping off the stripper using a putty knife. The stripper will bring with it layers of paint, primer and materials. Where there are a number of layers of paint, or excessive amounts of bondo, more than one application will certainly be required.
Once you have removed the vast majority of paint and materials from a significant area, such as a fender, or a door, etc, you should thoroughly wash the stripped area in water. This will help to neutralize the acids remaining on the surface. Any remaining residue of paint/materials should now be removed using lacquer thinner and Scotch pads or wheels.
The clean, bare metal is then scrubbed using Scotch-Brite pads and DX 579 metal cleaner. Next the panel should be thoroughly wiped down using DX 520SG, which will create an entirely corrosion free, primable surface. The panel should then be primed as quickly as possible using a high quality epoxy primer, such as PPG's DP 90 or 50, catalyzed with DP 402 catalyst.
Although this is an extremely unpleasant task, it is one of those where the home restorer can achieve perfect results himself/herself, without having to go to the expense of employing the services of a professional shop. I predict that mid-way through the task, however, you will begin questioning the wisdom of the undertaking, and start wishing you had employed someone else to do the job for you - whatever the cost!
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