Experience
in a Book
Cooling
System Upgrades
ELECTRIC FAN SUBSTITUTION FOR BELT-DRIVEN FAN:
The best solution for fan clutch
problems is to install a large electric fan (or two large
electric fans) and remove the fan, clutch, mounting assembly
(shaft & bearings), belt, and idler pulley altogether --
and perhaps the little stock electric fan as well. The Jag
V12 is a hot beast, so the biggest electric fans that will
fit should be used; a single 16", dual 14"s, etc. One
benefit: we have all heard stories about how much power the
belt-driven fan uses or even how much the belt itself uses,
but the 16" electric fans typically draw about 10 amps --
meaning they use only about 1/8 horsepower when they are on.
And if you control them properly, they're not on when not
needed.
Electric fans can sometimes be mounted on the front of
the radiator (if you can deal with the diagonal strut on the
XJ-S), opening up considerable working room in the engine
compartment. Many aftermarket fans are designed to be
installed on either side of the radiator; to mount in front,
typically the blade must be removed, turned around, and
reinstalled, and the wiring must be reversed to run the
motor in the "blow" direction rather than the "suck"
direction. Note that a fan on the front side and blowing
shouldn't have a shroud, but a fan on the back side and
sucking most certainly will need one -- and the shroud
that's integral with the fan is usually inadequate, what's
really needed is a rectangular shroud to cover an entire end
of the radiator.
There are lots of places to purchase 16" electric fans.
Most local auto parts stores carry them, as well as
J. C. Whitney. One of the best selections is from
Jeg's. Peter Cohen offers another intriguing possibility:
"Went shopping in the wrecking yard the other day for parts
for the Volvo lump project. I came home with a 16" electric
fan from an '83 Buick Regal ($20). This fan has a ring on
the outer edge that is attached to the fan blades, and
rotates with it. It is secured by three metal rods that go
from the motor housing to two points on the lower radiator
support brace, and one to the upper support brace.
Interestingly, it also uses a ballast resistor, and 3 wires.
One wire is ground, one goes through the ballast resistor,
and one bypasses the ballast resistor, presumably to make a
two speed fan." This author visited his local junkyard and
found similar fans in a Delta 88 and a Toronado, except that
they had plastic support structures instead of the metal
tripod. Both had the same resistor arrangement for two
speeds. The key is apparently to look for large FWD GM cars
with a transverse-mounted V6; smaller FWD GM cars have a 14"
electric fan, and RWD GM cars use belt-driven fans. Tip:
take a 10mm socket and ratchet with you to the junkyard.
If you are shopping for a new fan, note that the Imperial
brand 16" electric fans are reportedly unreliable; you'd be
well advised to avoid that model.
One thing to look for in electric fans: a grille to keep
your fingers out of it. Some have it, some don't (the GM OEM
fans don't). If you're the kind of person that worries about
such things, you might want the grille. The rest of us most
definitely do not want the grille, since it reduces the
airflow by a considerable amount.
Installation of electric fans requires more thought than
simply slapping a fan in there. For example, consider the
space between the A/C condenser and the radiator: with a
blower fan in front, the air might come through the
condenser, go sideways within this space, and come back out
through a different part of the condenser -- providing
excellent A/C but leaving the engine uncooled. Similarly, a
sucking fan can pull air from the engine compartment through
the radiator backwards, across the space, and back through
the radiator to the fan -- leaving the A/C condensor without
airflow, and eventually overheating the engine from
recirculating the same air. If the space between the
condensor and radiator is open to outside, things get even
worse. In the XJ-S, one tempting possibility is to mount one
16" electric fan in the existing shroud on the right side of
the radiator (replacing the stock belt-driven fan), and a
second 16" fan on the left front of the radiator blowing
through the A/C condenser; this would make sure that both
coils get airflow. Another possibility is to just replace
the belt-driven fan with an electric and leave the small
electric fan and the entire shroud assembly as stock.
John Napoli went this latter route, and reports on the
process: "Removing all the stock stuff is a bit of a pain --
there is not much room to work, the process is iterative --
but it all comes out. You'll have to replace a couple of the
water pump bolts that went through the idler pulley bracket
with shorter bolts. Remove the radiator while you are at it
to clean out the leaves in between the rad and the condensor
-- I seem to recall that if you pull the rad first it is
easier to get out the stock fan.
"I kept the stock electric fan and added the second
inside the shroud of the old mechanical fan. The fan shroud
is split from the factory (little fan and big fan) so this
is real easy. I used an ëS' bladed fan from a Hot Rod
supplier - 1-800-strt-rod or somesuch - it is the largest
one they had (17" or 18"). Any fan of similar size should be
fine; you can get them from Pep Boys or JCWhitney. Be sure
to run the fan before installing it. Some are out of
balance. Mine was, and you would not believe how annoying it
is! I had to balance the blade (wrapped solder around the
light spots and used weatherstrip adhesive to lock it in
place) but it would have been better to start with a perfect
unit.
"I made brackets to hang it off of the stock shroud. It
fits in there nicely and the underhood appearance and access
is improved. Do not under any circumstances attach
the fan to the radiator core with those silly little plastic
thingies! The Jag radiator is softly mounted to absorb
vibration. Use those shortcuts, and the new fan will quickly
work loose.
"Performance has been fine as measured on accurate
mechanical water temperature gauges. I like overkill,
though, and may some day add one or two little pushers in
front of the condensor." Note: a better way to evaluate fan
adequacy would be to measure the temperature of the
air coming through. A marginal capacity fan may keep
the coolant within limits but the air coming through the
radiator will be really hot, while an excessive amount of
airflow will minimize how much the air heats up. Of course,
comparisons would have to be done on similar days with the
engine running under similar conditions.
Tip: If you are removing the stock mechanical fan bearing
support, you will need two studs 4-1/4" long with 5/16"-18
(coarse) threads on one end to continue to hold the water
pump properly. The other end of each stud can be either
coarse or fine thread, since it gets a nut and you can use
whatever nut matches. Good luck finding such studs!
Alternatively, you can use threaded rod cut to length, or
you can cut the original stud shorter and thread it. Or, you
can just stack washers on the existing stud if you don't
need clearance in the area for the motor on your electric
fan. You will also need two 5/16"-18 bolts 1" long, but
those are easy to find.
CONTROLLING ELECTRIC FANS: Electric fans can be
controlled by either of several mechanisms. The simplest
method is to wire the fans to run whenever the ignition is
on. This is wasteful, however, since the fans are only
needed when the car is standing still or moving slowly. It
also may cause the engine to run cold, or take too long to
warm up, in cold weather.
The electric fans could also be connected to the existing
electric fan control system, which automatically operates
when the engine is hot or when the air conditioner is
operating. Note that replacing the single tiny fan with a
couple huge ones requires more electrical work than simply
installing a larger fuse in the #1 position in the headlight
fusebox; the stock wiring, even if it doesn't burn up, will
provide too much resistance and the fans won't run as fast
as they should. Some suitably heavy wiring should be run
from the buss on the firewall to the new fans, using a
separate relay for each fan. Napoli: "I wired the new fan
simply: I added a relay that is picked up by the stock (ie,
little) fan coming on. The power for the new fan is routed
through the relay from one of the 12 volt feeder wires
located near the relays at the upper rear corner of the
right fender. You can get fancy and route alternative feeds
from the A/C compressor or a dashboard switch, but if you do
you may need a diode to prevent backfeeding something
else."
Yet another possibility is to add another fan switch into
the coolant system. Jaguar makes a suitable housing for a
switch for the Mk III E-type, C34005, that fits into a
radiator hose, or maybe you could get lucky and find a
switch that will fit one of the unused ports in the water
rails on top of the heads. Or, there are switches sold for
electric fans that just strap to the outside of a pipe, so
you could just attach it to one of the coolant pipes -- or
oil pipes, for that matter. With any such switch, one of two
fans can be connected to the stock wiring and the other to a
separate switch. This would result in the two fans operating
separately, and only one running when only a small amount of
airflow is needed (since one fan will always come on before
the other). The dual circuit also provides a measure of
redundancy, since one of the fans would provide some cooling
in the event of the failure of the other circuit.
The fans could also be controlled via an air temperature
sensor in the air coming through the radiator. This method
is often used by the aftermarket fans, providing a switch
that mounts right on the fan housing. Note that if the fans
are mounted in front of the radiator, the sensor must be
moved to behind the radiator to work properly. This method
scares me, since I always wonder what would happen if there
is no air coming through the radiator -- like, the car is
stuck in traffic and there's a slight breeze from
behind.
Yet another control system would be to provide a "paddle"
switch that shuts the fans off when the airflow due to car
motion is adequate. There don't appear to be any such items
commercially available, but making one would not be
difficult. A pivot with a paddle on one side and a tiny
counterweight on the other, balanced to eliminate inertia
effects, could be installed in the area behind the front
grille. The arrangement could be rigged to operate a
conventional microswitch with contact ratings sufficient to
operate the fans directly, or a relay could be incorporated.
Using an ohmmeter or a light bulb, the car can be tested and
the switch adjusted until it operates at a suitable speed,
about 30-40 mph. This system would still operate the fans
when the engine was cold, but would function properly with
the air conditioner; the air conditioner requires airflow
when running even when the engine is cold, but the motion of
the car above 30 mph will be adequate; turning the fans off
is OK.
Finally, remember that you can use a combination
of the above schemes; for example, you could use a paddle
switch along with a temperature sensor to prevent the fan
from operating when moving fast or when the engine is
cold.
If the control scheme used allows any possibility that
the fans will be off when the car is idling, be sure to
incorporate circuitry to run at least one fan whenever the
air conditioner is operating (similar to the present wiring
for the small stock electric fan). On some later XJ-S's, the
small stock electric fan does not come on with the
A/C, but remember that this is assuming a belt-driven fan
that is always turning; regardless of the stock wiring, if
the belt-driven fan is removed you must provide fan
operation when the A/C compressor is engaged, regardless of
engine temperature or outdoor temperature.
One final note: another nice feature of electric fans is
their ability to run after the engine is shut off. The
biggest heat problem in the XJ-S is heat soak after
shutdown. The small electric fan already can provide some
relief if the coolant is hot enough for it to be on when the
car is shut down, but having multiple electric fans and
multiple control schemes provides more possibilities for
addressing this issue. It might even make sense to provide
an air temperature sensor at the upper rear of the engine
compartment to control post-shutdown fan operation. Or,
maybe using a hot-start sensor in the fuel rail to control a
fan would help with hot starts more than the way it's
normally used (to alter fuelling).
RADIATOR HOSE FILTERS: Almost everybody who has
taken their XJ-S radiator to a shop and had it rodded out
has been told that it was really plugged up. The Jaguar
recommendation to use Barr's Leaks in this system is often
blamed, but there are apparently other contributors as well.
Rust scale coming off the inside of the header tank and
crossover pipe is a source of crud. Some mechanics use too
much silicone sealant so it leaves a bead around the joint,
and later on this bead peels off and starts looking for a
passage to plug. And those who replace their coolant often
but mix it with hard tap water are introducing a whole new
supply of minerals with each change; when the engine heats
up, all these minerals deposit on hot engine parts as a
scale, and then peel off in chunks and go looking for
passages to plug.
Why don't they make a "last chance" filter to install in
the upper radiator hose to catch all this junk before it can
get into the radiator and plug things up? There are no small
passages in the engine, the chunks could just flow right
through the block, but catching them before the radiator
should greatly extend the time between roddings.
They do. Brian Schultetus provided the source:
Gano Filter Company
1205 Sandalwood Lane
Los Altos, California 94024
+1 (650) 968-7017
This company makes a filter that is essentially a conical
screen in a tube. The basic model is a clear plastic tube so
you can see the filter getting crudded up and know when to
replace it, but some people don't like plastic so they offer
a brass tube model as well. They also claim that the screen
is made of the same copper alloy as the radiator itself, so
it also serves as a monitor for corrosion. And they point
out that merely having the clear tube can provide
considerable information on what is going on in the cooling
system.
The filter comes in three sizes, and of course they
expect most customers to buy one per car. The V12 has two
upper radiator hoses, though, so you will need two filters.
The hoses are 1-1/4" in diameter, which corresponds to
Gano's "small" size filter.
HEATER HOSE FILTER: Gano (see above) also offers a
small filter assembly for installation in the line to the
heater core, pointing out that the same crud that plugs
radiators can also plug heater cores. Your immediate
reaction might be "Who cares? If the heater core gets
plugged, it doesn't damage the engine." However, you might
want to rethink that reaction. The heater core getting
plugged might not damage the engine, but it'd still be no
picnic to fix.
Unfortunately, the Gano heater hose filter assembly is
only available in brass -- no clear plastic version offered
-- and therefore must be disassembled to check for
pluggage.
On the plus side, you don't need to get this item from
Gano; it's available in any hardware store! All it requires
is a pair of fittings for a 5/8" garden hose, and one of
those hose washers with the built-in conical screen intended
for supply hoses for washing machines and dishwashers.
Garden hose fittings generally come in three flavors: The
plastic junk, the slightly better "corrogated" brass (made
of thin brass formed to shape), and actual high-quality
fittings machined from solid brass. Besides being
considerably more durable, the solid machined brass items
also typically have flats around both male and female
fittings, making it much easier to tighten and loosen. This
being the US, most consumers are morons who buy the plastic
junk, and most retailers are also morons who cater to this
stupidity rather than making the slightest efforts towards
educating their customers on why a better product is the
wiser buy. So, the solid machined brass items can be a
little hard to find.
Home Depot carries an excellent set. Made by Nelson, item
N-1558 B, "5/8" Brass Hose Repair -- Extra Heavy Duty Rod
Brass" contains a male fitting, a female fitting, two SS
worm screw hose clamps, and one rubber washer -- in other
words, everything you need except that you'll need to pitch
the simple washer and install a screened washer instead.
This set costs about $5, and the screened washers are
perhaps 3 for $1. With a little shopping you can actually
find screened washers in two or three different screen grid
sizes; the ones with the biggest holes are suggested -- the
fine ones are really fine. After screwing the two
fittings together with this screened washer in the middle,
just cut the heater hose between the engine and the heater
valve and install this assembly with the clamps.
Cleaning this thing should be easy, since you can easily
install this thing at the very highest point in the
system and not even have to do any draining. Just unscrew
the two hose fittings from each other, clean out o better
"corrogated" brass (made of thin brass formed to shape), and
in the line reduce flow to the heater core? Perhaps. Here in
FL, we couldn't care less; any flow at all is enough, and
most of the time we'd rather have less flow. But you
guys who live in the less habitable climates might think
before installing this screen. I have this suggestion:
Install the screen assembly, and then when winter approaches
unscrew the fittings and replace the screened washer with a
normal hose washer. That way, you get filtration in the
summer, full flow in the winter. With any luck at all, the
filtration in the summer will take enough of the crud out of
the system that there won't be any pluggage during the
winter.
Such a screen installed in the heater line might actually
save your radiator! Since this essentially becomes a "bypass
filter" arrangement, eventually this tiny screen should
remove most of the crud circulating around the closed
coolant circuit. The only problem will be the crud that jams
tubes in the radiator before ever going through the heater
hose, but if you're really concerned you should be buying
the Gano radiator hose filters above. The other shortcoming
is that, since this screen is so small, it's likely you'll
have to clean it out a lot of times right after installing
it until you get the system pretty well cleared up.
Post-Shutdown
Cooling
It it commonly acknowledged that the worst cooling
problem the XJ-S has is not when running, but after
shutdown. The small electric fan runs after shutdown if the
thermal switch has it running when the engine is shut off,
but once the switch cuts out -- which it does all too soon,
since it is reading coolant temperature at radiator outlet
-- it will not come on again. 700 pounds of hot engine plus
hot exhaust manifolds and hot catalytic convertors tend to
raise the underhood temperatures after shutdown considerably
higher than they ever were while running, and there are
indications that parts of the engine itself get hotter after
shutdown as well.
There are three problems generally associated with
post-shutdown heating: Dropped valve seats, hot start
difficulties, and heat-stressed engine compartment
components. The exact mechanism of dropped valve seats is
unclear, but several owners have suffered dropped seats
after a hot shutdown rather than while running. The
other two problems are clearer, and result from the high
temperature of the air surrounding the engine -- and all the
extraneous components that are heated by the air. Since
there is no longer fuel flow in the rail, the fuel sitting
in it gets hotter and hotter, causing serious hot start
problems that Jaguar has addressed with a coupla different
types of fuel rail temp sensor providing fuel enrichment.
The post-shutdown underhood temperatures are clearly a key
cause of deteriorated hoses, brittle wiring, short-lived
electrical components, and a host of other traditional
Jaguar afflictions.
This section includes several ideas for dealing with the
post-shutdown temperatures. Most address primarily the
temperature of the air within the engine compartment,
which may or may not have a significant effect on the
temperature of the heads themselves in the vicinity of the
valve seats.
HOOD VENTS: Just the ticket for letting the heat
rise naturally out of the hood after shutdown. It's a body
modification, so it's discussed further in Body
Modifications.
ELECTRIC COOLING FAN BOOTSTRAP
CIRCUIT: The electric fan includes a "bootstrap"
circuit, so that if the coolant is hot enough for the fan to
be running when the engine is shut off, the fan will
continue to run until the coolant temperature switch shuts
it off. Once off, the bootstrap circuit drops out and the
fan cannot start again, no matter what.
Other cars -- notably Japanese and other FWD 4-bangers --
have cooling fans that cycle on and off for quite a while
after the engine is shut off. Clearly, they are wired so
that the fan will run if the thermostat calls for it,
regardless of whether the ignition is on or not. It is also
evident that they come on -- indicating that once
they shut off the first time, they may still be needed
again. Probably the engine heat soaking through the
compartment.
Why did Jaguar provide this bootstrap circuit, rather
than just wiring the fan to run when needed like the Jap
cars? There would be two possible results if the bootstrap
weren't in there: 1) The fan would never come on after
shutting off the first time -- meaning that the bootstrap
circuit was unnecessary; or 2) the fan would come on
after shutting down, which means it needs to come on
and the bootstrap circuit is contributing to the cooking of
the engine parts!
The only plausible explanations: A) Jaguar was afraid the
Lucas thermostat would fail in the on position and kill the
battery; B) they didn't feel that a fan kicking on and off
in the parking lot was in keeping with the proper Jaguar
image; or C) they were worried about liability from someone
having their fingers in there when a fan came on
unexpectedly. Stuart Barnes adds D) "Many car alarms are
voltage sensing and although they can cope with a voltage
rise (to allow an electric fan to run and then stop) a lot
of the aftermarket varieties can't cope with the voltage
drop that would occur when the fan came back on."
For those of us who are more concerned with the life of
our machines, keep our fingers out of moving machinery as a
force of habit, and don't have such alarm system concerns,
it might be a good idea to rewire that circuit to run the
fan whenever necessary. It's easy to do: On the left side of
the engine compartment is a small blue box that looks like a
relay, but it's the diode
pack. Pull the LG wire off of terminal 4 and connect it
to a 12V power supply. There is a 12V supply available at
the solid brown wires at the headlight fusebox just a few
inches forward of the diode pack.
Note that, if you have headlight washers and wipers, the
blue box might not be the fan
diode pack.
ENGINE COMPARTMENT AIR TEMP SENSOR: Another way to
get the electric cooling fan to run longer after shutdown
might involve adding an air temperature thermostat within
the engine compartment -- preferably high and rearward,
where the post-shutdown cooking problems are the worst. This
thermostat could be set at a much lower temperature than the
one in the coolant and still wouldn't come into play while
the car is moving or the engine-driven fan is circulating
air. But if the air starts getting hotter after shutdown, it
can come on -- even if the coolant in the water pump isn't
that hot -- and flow some cool air through the engine
compartment.
Imperial makes a dandy little "Adjustable Thermostat for
Electric Cooling Fans", number 226203, available at Discount
Auto Parts. It's really an air temp thermostat. It has a
remote bulb sensor and includes instructions for mounting
right on the back side of the radiator core, but you could
mount it anywhere -- even on the underside of the hood! The
thermostat is adjustable from 248†F to 32†F, and the
contacts are heavy enough to control fans directly without
relays.
ELECTRIC COOLING FAN POST-SHUTDOWN TIMER: Michael
Aiken's plan: forget relying on temp sensors and simply
provide a timer that runs the fan for a fixed amount of time
after shutdown. Aiken used one of the existing 10-minute
seat heater timers to provide this fan operation, and
provided the wiring scheme shown in
Figure
26 which automatically starts the fan running on the
timer whenever the engine is fully warmed up and shut off.
Aiken points out that this is not an unheard-of idea; the
Nissan 300ZX uses a similar scheme with a 17-minute
timer.
Aiken describes this scheme: "The timer is activated by
grounding pin 1 and then releasing it. It will not activate
if pin 1 is held to ground. I left the manual switch (on the
side of the console) wired in so the light would show when
the fan is on, but that is optional." Having the pushbutton
may have an additional benefit: you can push the button to
force 10 minutes of fan operation whenever you wish. This
might be handy if, for example, you get stuck in downtown
traffic; you can simply tell the fan to run continuously for
10 minutes rather than cycle on and off with the
thermostatic switch operation.
"The capacitor is a 2000µfd electrolyte and the
diode is 3 amp. The capacitor attaches to ignition key 12V
output in position 2 and 3. This is important to keep the
fan from coming on during startup (position 3)." Ed. note:
the wires that meet this criteria are white, as has been
indicated on the schematic. They are connected to terminal 3
on the ignition switch.
"When 12V is applied to the capacitor it charges through
the diode. When the ignition is turned off the capacitor
discharges back through the relay momentarily (about .5
seconds) activating it and starting the timer relay. The fan
runs for 10 minutes and then shuts off. The thermostat in
the ground leg prevents the capacitor discharge if the
engine is not yet warmed up. The capacitor does hold the
charge and will discharge later if the temp reaches the set
temp -- even several minutes after shutdown. I set my temp
at 180†F."
The schematic shows the output of the timer (pin 4)
connected through a diode to the wire from terminal 1 on the
diode pack to the fan relay, so it will directly close the
relay and operate the fan. Radio Shack catalog number
276-1661 will serve nicely for this diode as well as the
other one used in this scheme. In this application on the
timer output, the diode only serves to make the indicator
light show that the timer is engaged. If this diode is
omitted, the system will still work just dandy but the light
will be on whenever the fan is running, even if it is the
A/C compressor control or the stock coolant switch operating
it.
If you happen to have one of the later cars where the A/C
compressor does not bring on the electric fan (as Aiken
has), you don't have to buy a new diode for this task;
there's an unused one in the diode pack. Just connect pin 4
of the timer directly to terminal 3 of the diode pack.
Aiken also points out that this scheme doesn't have to
control the small stock electric fan; it could be used just
as well to control an aftermarket electric fan, or anything
else electrical you'd like to run for 10 minutes after
shutdown. The use of a marine bilge vent fan has even been
suggested. It's probably not a good idea to operate a large
fan or multiple fans; it shouldn't take much airflow to keep
the underhood temperatures within reason, and you don't want
to strain the battery. The fact is, the stock Jag small fan
is probably perfect for this job.
Since Aiken used the seat heater controls, the schematic
shows the timer and the pushbutton with indicator light as
they appear in the Jaguar seat heater schematics. Of course,
if you'd rather leave your seat heaters wired as originally
intended -- or if you have an earlier car that doesn't even
have seat heaters -- you can simply buy a new timer from
Jaguar, or perhaps a generic timer (or maybe the one from a
Nissan!). You can simply leave the pushbutton and indicator
light (and the related diode) out of the circuitry
altogether if you wish and connect terminal 30 of the relay
directly to pin 1 on the timer. Or, you can buy any generic
momentary pushbutton switch; don't let the excessively
complicated Jaguar illustration fool you, that heater switch
is just a normal momentary single contact switch with a
built-in indicator light. If it's only the indicator light
you want, you can skip the switch altogether and simply buy
any generic 12V indicator and connect it to pin 4 on the
timer and to ground and mount it anywhere convenient -- or
you could wire it to one of the unneeded warning lights in
the dash.
Aiken apparently left his timer where it was originally
mounted behind the dash, but if you're installing a new
timer you can pretty well choose anywhere to install it.
Other than 12V power -- any brown wire -- the only thing you
really need is access to a suitable white ignition wire, and
they are all over the car -- even going to the EFI power
relay in the trunk. There is also one to the ignition system
on the engine, so it's possible to install all of this stuff
someplace near the fan itself -- perhaps in front of the
radiator, or in the compartment behind a headlight -- and
not have to run any wires into the passenger compartment,
provided you don't want a pushbutton or indicator light.
On to
Drivetrain
Modifications
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