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Jaguar XJ6 Front Bumper

// Jag-Lovers // The Jaguar XJ6 // Contents // Index //

 

Jaguar XJ6: Front Bumper

The first thing you come to when you start at the front of the car is the license plate.

The License Plate

The license plate on the front of an XJ6 seems to have been an afterthought. If the law in your locality allows it, you can remove it. As the design was conceived the car had an adequate cooling system and perhaps in England where the summer temperatures rarely reach 80ºF degrees, let alone 105ºF, the addition of a license plate meant nothing. But in warm climates where you need every bit of help you can get, the license plate can rob you of 10ºC of cooling capacity.

My 1982 XJ6 ran at 85ºC to 90ºC on the highway at 70 mph. When I got to the track I would remove the front license plate and the car would run at 75ºC even though I was running at 120 mph on the straight and averaging over 85 mph for the entire road course.

In order to get sufficient air flow through the radiator you need a smooth flow under the car to draw it through the engine compartment. The license plate destroys that smooth flow and the air tends to pile up somewhat in the engine compartment so get rid of it if you can or at least you can bend it under against the bottom of the bumper.

Horns

Next back are the horns which are fastened in the center just below the front bumper. The horns are not anything spectacular. They are just a standard vibrating diaphragm powered by an electromagnet that switches on and off when the horn button is depressed. These are repairable and are not complicated. Anyone can open one up, clean it out, clean the contacts, replace the gasket and put them back in operation.

Their location near the road makes them susceptible to getting full of all sorts of junk that gets pushed back to the diaphragm and jams up the works. The gaskets are paper and tend to deteriorate quickly allowing water into the inner workings of the horn. You should use one of the liquid silicone gasket materials when you put it back together as they will last longer than a paper gasket. BUT... new horns made of plastic are so cheap that repairs are hardly worth the time unless you are just into the pure satisfaction of being able to say "I did it." I recommend doing it once if you are new to auto repair, it will give you a project that you can do and feel proud of. If the electromagnet is badly rusted or the coil is burned, I don't recommend trying to repair it but it can be done.

Also, I might mention that as Kirby Plam says, "12 volts is 12 volts" so any 12 volt horn from a "chebby" or any other car will work just as well.

Headlight Wipers

Continuing back, to the headlight wipers. Not all XJ6s have this feature. If you have it you may not be happy with them as it seems they do not always function. If you don't have them and want them, they can be added by acquiring the parts from the dealer or from a junk yard (breaker) in a country where the feature was available. In this case, I know only that England and Australia had this feature. There are probably others.

From the advice I got when I sought to add this feature to my XJ6 the consensus was that you don't want to add it. More thought on the subject revealed to me that I could not remember when the last time was that I had to wipe the headlights on my car, so the feature may not be really needed unless you go off-road with your XJ6.

Headlights

Moving further back we come to the headlights themselves. In Europe, England and Australia at least the outer set of headlights are 7 inch diameter and the inner set is 5 inch diameter. Because of the wonderful foresight of our glorious leaders here in the US the XJ6 was supplied to the US with an adapter that allows 5 inch headlights in all four positions. The air intake for the cockpit comes through a screen in this adapter. A change in the law since then would now allow the 7 inch headlights again.

On the models with the 7 inch headlights there were two types of trim, one with the air intake screen and one without the air intake screen. This depended upon whether the car used the headlights for an air intake or not. In converting a US model to the 7 inch headlights, a step I highly recommend, you should try to get the trim with the air intake screen.

Converting to 7 inch Headlights

Converting a US model to 7 inch headlights does two things. First it looks great. The designers knew what they were doing when they put 7 inch headlights on the outside. Second, you can now use the H4 Halogen 7 inch headlights with the replaceable elements made by Hella in Germany. I don't have the part number on these, but some numbers from the front of the lens may help. Mine are marked "1R7/R20" just below the center of the lens. Around the perimeter are the markings "111 603" and " MADE IN GERMANY-SAE MP 76." These bulbs have a very sharp, flat, top that allow you to use them on the highway without blinding oncoming traffic. The top of the beam is so flat and defined that the first time I drove down a country road at night, where there were trees where the beam could be defined, I ducked as it looked like I was running under a low bridge. But you'll get used to it.

The conversion can be done with all new parts from the dealer, about US$350 or you can do as I did and find a friend in Australia who will haunt the junkyards for the parts and send them to you. There are also non Jaguar dealers who can find the parts for you, sometimes at a discount.

I have been told, but cannot confirm that the buckets are pretty standard English fare and can be scavenged off Triumphs with 7 inch headlights, but the trim would still be a problem.

Do not get the bulbs from another country if they drive on the opposite side of the road from where you live. The dip will be to the wrong side if you do. The 7 inch bulbs in your own country will work perfectly and are still easy to get.

Air Conditioner Condenser

The air conditioner condenser is a very conventional item that you will have no difficulty in obtaining if it needs to be replaced. The usual failure mode of these is a crack in one of the welds that causes a leak. They can be repaired but I don't recommend it since the cost of R12 has gone through the roof it makes more sense to bite the bullet and pay the US$150 to get a new one from the local parts house. It should be good for 10 years whereas the repair job will probably fail within 3 years. Now this is not true of the evaporator coil and I will expand on the economics of this when I get to that slice at the windshield where the evaporator resides.

Replacing the Condenser

Replacing a condenser coil is easy and straight forward if the system is already devoid of freon which it should be if you have a leak in the condenser. If there is pressure in the system though it is best to take it to a refrigeration shop and have them recover the freon before you begin work on it. Whenever the system is without freon it is a good idea to unplug the compressor clutch at the air conditioner compressor to make sure it does not accidentally get turned on. If the compressor were to be run when there was no freon/lubricant in the system it could destroy the compressor and there goes another US$200.

The new condenser will come with the inlet and outlet pipes sealed. These seals should remain in place until you are ready to connect the hose to the pipe. This will keep moisture out of the system. When you remove the old condenser you should seal the hose ends with stoppers to prevent moisture laden air from entering the system. And it is always recommended that the drier be replaced when ever the system is opened. A new drier will set you back US$30 to US$50 but it is worth it, again because to cost of recharging the system, if you have to open it again, will be in excess of US$150.

The condenser itself is a delicate item and you should refrain from dinging up the radiator fins and don't bend the inlet and outlet tubing as it can break a weld and defeat the purpose of your repair.

The condenser can be replaced without removing the hood (bonnet), but I don't recommend it at all. It is too easy to damage the condenser as it is very light aluminum and easy to ding.

Air Conditioner Parts Replacements

From B.J.Kroppe I received the following suggestions on replaceable parts for the Air Conditioning system:

Air conditioning receiver/drier (long tube style)
Manufacturer: SCS/Frigette
Part Number: 207-640 XH9 Desiccant
Cost: US$41.00 in 1995, from a local a/c shop
Models:
78-79.5 XJ12 from VIN 2R58346
79.5-82.5 XJ6 to VIN 330665 (although my car is '82 VIN 3441782 and it fits)
XJS ?????

Air conditioning compressor
Manufacturer: General Motors, Harrison Division Part Number: A-6
Cost: US$125 in 1995 from a local a/c shop (rebuilt unit)
Models:
Not sure exactly but some SII XJ6/XJ12 and maybe all SIII XJ6/XJ12.
XJS???"

Radiator

The radiator on an XJ6 is an excellent piece of engineering. It works well when kept clean and there is no real reason for an XJ6 to overheat if it is properly maintained. BUT... there is one catch.

Radiator Leak Sealers

Jaguar, for some reason known only to them, recommended for years that when refilling the coolant there should be some sort of leak sealer included in the procedure. In the US at least this meant that a radiator leak sealer was added every year or so. Over the years the stuff collected in the bottom of the radiator forming a soft brick-like material.

When the radiator on my then 10 year old, newly acquired 1982 XJ6 was removed and cleaned there was at least a quart of solidified leak sealer in the bottom of the radiator. When the car was purchased it was running 120ºC on the gauge. After cleaning the radiator it dropped to 85ºC.

Which brings me to a very important fact. The green arc on the temperature gauge does not mean "GOOD." Your XJ6 should not run above 95ºC in normal conditions.

Overheating Problems

If you are having overheating problems, have the radiator cleaned. This includes removing both tanks and having it rodded. A simple flushing will not do. See the section on radiator leak sealers for more details.

Removing the Radiator

Removing the radiator is straight forward and it can be done by just disconnecting the end of the hood (bonnet) restraint so that the hood (bonnet) can move forward more to a vertical position. But be careful that you don't damage the grill work on the bumper. I had no help so I took this route. But if you have help, removing the hood (bonnet) altogether will be safer and give you more room. The time to remove the hood (bonnet) will be more than repaid in the time you save by being able to get to things.

Watch when you remove the radiator that you plug the transmission lines when you remove them so that dirt does not get into your automatic transmission and screw it up. The cost of a new BW66 being around US$1,200 at the time of this writing makes care a cheap commodity.

While you have the radiator in the shop I would suggest new belts, new coolant (without any leak sealants) and new hoses. Now is the time they are easy to get to and alot more pleasant to do it now rather than in August on a back country road when the ambient temperature is 105F and you have on a three piece suit. I recommend new hoses and belts every two years whether you think you need them or not. If you don't, someday you will wish you did when you are walking home.

Radiator Expansion Tank

Some XJ6s have only one radiator filler cap on the header tank while others have an expansion tank with a filler on it as well. On the cars with the expansion tank a lesser known cause of coolant loss and overheating is to have a pressure cap on the header tank as well as on the expansion tank. The cap on the expansion tank should be a pressure cap while the second cap should not be a pressure cap. If you have a pressure cap on the header it will release fluid that will be lost and not recoverable. This constant loss of fluid every time the car comes up to pressure will cause overheating.

Horn Relay

First I will make just one comment on the horn relay and we will move on to the fan/clutch.

The horn relay is mounted on the inside front fender (wing) well and on two of my cars it was mounted "bottom side up," that is the terminals pointed skyward. This mounting scheme meant that water could collect in the thing and eventually short it out. On both of these cars I remounted the relay with the terminals pointing down. I never had any more trouble with the horn relay.

Cooling Fan and Clutch

There are two styles of fan and clutch. The earlier cars had a four bolt attachment fastened the fan to the clutch the later Series III had a single bolt in the center. The change happened sometime in the early Series III. My 1982 Series III has the older four bolt style. This is important when you decide to replace it because the salesman at the parts store will most likely only stock the one you don't need...

Overheating Problems

There are several things here that need attention on occasion. If you are having a problem with overheating it could be the fan clutch if the over heating is at idle and at low speeds such as around town but goes away at highway speeds. A properly operating fan clutch will allow the fan to slip. With the engine turned off you should be able to turn the fan with your hand while the pulley stands still. If you cannot then the fan clutch is seized. (If the pulley slips in the belt then your belt is too loose as well!) In this condition you should hear a distinctive roar from the engine bay when the engine is running since the fan is pulling too much air. On the other hand you don't want a clutch that slips too much either. If when you spin it by hand it continues for much more than 3/4 of a turn it may be too loose.

The clutch can be removed and the fan removed without removing the fan shroud. It takes a bit of a contortionist and skinny fingers to manage it but it can be done.

More information on overheating can be found in the Overheating Guide.

Electric Fan Alternatives

Kirby Palm has suggested that an electric fan in front of the radiator would be more efficient than the mechanical one behind it. It would probably have to be bigger than the usual 16 inch size to be an improvement over the mechanical one but perhaps two fans could do the job. The advantage to this is removal of a horsepower drain and removal of the fan shroud which effectively blocks some of the airflow. No one has yet admitted to doing it yet, so I have no idea whether it would work, but it should.

Fan Shroud

Another noise that can come from the fan is caused by the tips of the fan blades hitting the fan shroud. If it happens continuously it can mean that the bushing was left out when a fan clutch was replaced and the fan is off center. This should be visible to the naked eye as a wobble.

Another cause could be an incorrectly installed motor mount or transmission mount, or a defective mount. Usually with a motor mount you will hear the fan hit the shroud when you are either accelerating or braking. The motor shifts on the bad motor mount and the fan hits the shroud. A bad motor mount needs immediate attention since it can cause throttle binding which can be very scary.

I had a car once that when you made a hard left turn the throttle jammed wide open. It took me by surprise the first time then I learned to hit the ignition switch quick. It turned out to be a broken motor mount.

I know of another incident where the motor actually fell out of a car when the motor mounts rotted through.

Power Steering Pump

The power steering pump is easily found in most larger US cities. It is also relatively easy to replace. The pump is rebuildable, but I have never been able to find a rebuild kit when I needed one. The pump is of the integral reservoir type so the plumbing is simple, one outlet and one inlet.

Series III Pump

In the XJ6 Series III they changed to metric threads on the pump so if you are using a new pump on an earlier model the fittings will have to be changed also. The main failure mode on these is a leaking seal. In the beginning the cost of power steering fluid is cheaper than a new pump and many times a power steering sealer can be added to the fluid that will soften the old hardened seal and make it work at least for a while. But, eventually you will have to replace it.

Power Steering Pump Sealers

If you use a sealer, read the directions. I once added a whole bottle of sealer to a power steering pump before reading the directions that said "add one ounce." And remember it is only a stop gap. You WILL replace the pump.

Series III Cruise Control Bellows

The cruise control bellows is a commonly failing item on the Series III cruise control. The rubber bellows gets loose around the end plates and the vacuum escapes. You can either seal it with silicon rubber sealant or you can use some long "tie-wraps" and wrap around the ends of the bellows to clamp it to the end plates. I have seen three, supposedly dead, cruise controls fixed this way.

Brake Master Cylinder

I do not recommend rebuilding a master cylinder. It can be done and it is not difficult. I do all mine, but I have been doing it for years. It requires hospital cleanliness, small fingers and sometimes a great deal of patience. But unless you are very sure you know what you are doing you can mess it up. The last thing on your car that you want to mess up is the master brake cylinder. Having an engine that quits is not nearly as dangerous as having a brake system that quits. And besides a rebuilt master cylinder is not that expensive. Someone called me after the first book and said rebuilt master cylinders were not available. I bought one two years ago so either I was lied to, or they were available two years ago. A new one can be had according to this caller at less than US$100. The time and pain you will save is worth the extra cost.

Replacing the Brake Master Cylinder

Replacing one though is easy. First remove as much fluid from the brake reservoir as possible with a suction bulb. Then to remove the master cylinder you need only to disconnect the rigid lines to the cylinder and plug them so they won't get dirt in them. On the Series I and Series II disconnect the two hoses to the reservoir and plug them so they won't get contaminated. Now remove the two bolts that bolt the master cylinder to the brake booster.

With the Series III the fluid reservoir is mounted on the top of the master cylinder and it comes away with the cylinder.

The now famous "assembly is the reverse of disassembly" applies here. Cleanliness is the watchword when working with the brake system. A small amount of contamination can cause brake failure and we don't want that. Remember that any time you open the brake system hydraulic lines for any reason it will be necessary to bleed the air from the system. If you don't you will have NO BRAKES.

Brake Booster

The brake booster is a vacuum servo that amplifies your foot pressure on the brake. If it is working all is well, if it is not, you will have a real feeling of helplessness at the next stop. It is possible to drive the car with the booster inoperative. I once did it for 2 weeks. It is dangerous to do so. The booster allows you to stop the car in half the distance you can under only human pressure. Don't drive with an inoperative vacuum booster.

Failure Warning Signs

There are warning signs when a booster starts to go out. One of the first indications is a sound that can only be described as the sound of one venting gas when you put your foot on the brake. There is no other way to describe it. The second, more ominous indication is the day you are braking for a stop and you realize that it took you more time to stop that you thought it would. Or the feeling that in the last 20 feet of stopping the engine suddenly started pulling and you almost hit the bumper of the car in front of you. Don't wait, drive CAREFULLY to the nearest place where you can get off the road and do so.

The trouble may be as simple as a bad or loose vacuum hose from the engine to the booster.

Rebuilding the Booster

Some versions of the booster are rebuildable with a kit (aparently all of the Series III are rebuildable) from the Jag parts house. Other versions are not. If you have a rebuildable unit then I would rebuild it when it fails. It can also be rebuilt by a qualified mechanic for about one half the cost of a new one. A new one is so expensive it will take your breath away. They can be found in junkyards (breakers) and if they are operational then go ahead and use a "previously owned" booster.

Replacing the Booster

Removal of the vacuum booster is easier than the Haynes manual tells you, at least on the Series III with LHD. I will describe the experience I had when I changed the thing in a hotel parking garage with just my small tool set for traveling.

The Haynes manual says that you have to remove the entire assembly with the master cylinder and the pedal box assembly all in one piece. This requires that the brake system be opened with its attendant bleeding after reassembly. It is also a bitch of a job.

When I read the manual and realized I would have to bleed the brakes by myself I decided to find out if there was a better way. There is, at least on a Series III with LHD. In looking at other models you may want to make sure that the master cylinder will move out of the way and that you can get to the clevis pin.

First remove the two bolts that fasten the master cylinder to the booster. Then remove the vacuum hose from the booster. Now comes the ticklish part. There is a rubber plug on the side of the pedal box that when removed gives access to the booster clevis pin. There is a rubber plug on both sides, remove them both. Now with a pair of needle nose pliers or a screw driver or anything you can get into the hole, remove the cotter pin (split pin) from the end of the clevis pin. Be very careful here since anything you drop will not be recoverable. Don't drop the pin, or the washers on the clevis pin. Withdraw the clevis pin and the booster is now disconnected from the brake pedal.

Now remove the nuts from the four studs that fasten the booster to the pedal box. Again, be careful here as things you drop may never be found again. Once these are all removed the booster can be pulled forward. It takes a little jiggling and twisting, but it will snake off the studs. The clamps that hold the brake lines to the inside of the fender (wing) well will have to be removed to give you enough slack to move the master cylinder. You will have to slightly, CAREFULLY, GENTLY bend the brake lines to move the master cylinder out of the way. Be very careful here as you don't want to crimp a brake line.

Putting the thing back in is a little tricky as it will only snake back in in one way. Its like those little wire puzzles that when you find the trick are easy, but are impossible without knowing the trick. Just wiggle it around till it goes on. It can help to get one nut on a stud then wiggle the thing around until the remaining studs go in. A slight amount of prying with a big screw driver can help, but you should be very cautious with this it can result in breaking something.

Once it is back in position get the nuts on all the studs but don't tighten them yet. Now re-attach the master cylinder and the clevis to the brake pedal. Again, I warn you, for Gods sake don't drop anything while putting the clevis pin back in or you will have to remove the pedal box to retrieve it. When the clevis is reinstalled with a new cotter pin (split pin) you can tighten everything back up and reinstall the vacuum line and the rubber plugs and top up the brake fluid resevoir.

Heater Water Control Valve

Also on the firewall is the heater water control valve. This valve is vacuum operated and will turn on or off the flow of water to the heater. Vacuum on turns the valve off. Thus if you remove the vacuum hose from the valve or it deteriorates with age it will cause the heater to be on all the time. If your A/C is not working up to snuff you should check to see that this valve is operating as it should and that it is not leaking. The A/C system will in certain circumstances run hot water through the heater coil when the A/C is running such as when you are in defrost mode so just making sure that vacuum opens and closes the valve and that when closed it does not flow is all that is necessary the computer will decide when to open or close it.

I have used a wine bottle cork in the hose from the block to the valve to seal off the hot water during the summer. This is a practice I don't recommend since the cork could deteriorate and get into the cooling system. If you do this, take precautions to keep the cork from moving by putting a clamp around it or something else. You don't want the cork to get loose and run around in your cooling system where it could block a water passage and overheat something..

The older valves were metal and many of the the replacement valves you get today are made of plastic. Personally I don't like them but I am told that they are better than the older valves. Ask for a metal valve from the supplier. If they cant get one try another supplier or take a chance with early replacement by using a plactic valve. Maybe they don't corrode internally. But, I just don't trust plastic to control hot water.

A/C Expansion Valve

The expansion valve for the A/C evaporator coil (the coil that gets cold) is on the firewall just behind the engine. If it is correctly done it is covered in a tar like substance and the capillary tube is back against the firewall out of the way. On my '82 XJ6 the capillary tube was against the back of the engine head and the entire system was uninsulated. This heat on the capillary tube caused the expansion valve to open fully allowing the freon to move through the system too fast and moving the cooling effect down stream completely past the evaporator coil and out of the cabin into the engine compartment. Needless to say I prefer to air condition the cabin, not the engine. Insulating it and moving it away from the engine made the A/C work much better.

Main Power Terminal

NOTE: All my information shows all XJ6s to have a negative ground (earth). If yours is positive ground you must reverse all the references to polarity.

The main power terminal is a large stud that is mounted just inboard of the battery on the firewall. It can be found by following the lead from the "+" terminal of the battery to the stud. This connector is often the cause of "dead" cars. If you have a fresh battery and when you turn the key to start nothing happens, the first thing you should do is check to see what it hot to the touch. Do not do this while trying to start the car! Be careful since some things get very hot very fast under high current. But touch, gently with a finger tip, then more forcefully by gripping, each of the two battery terminals and the main power terminal on the firewall. If any one of them is either hot or substantially warm you have a bad connection at that place. The bad connection is a high resistance that is dropping the majority of the battery's voltage and not allowing it to get to the starter where it needs to be. The starter is very low resistance, so it does not take much of a resistance to drop the entire battery voltage somewhere else. If you have a hot or warm terminal you must first disconnect the ground (earth) terminal from the battery.

Disconnect the Battery

The reason to disconnect a battery starting first with the ground terminal is that if you slip with your wrench and touch the chassis it will cause no harm. But if the ground terminal is connected and you are working on the "+" terminal and you slip with the wrench there is enough energy in the battery to fry your hand or even remove a finger if the current flows through a wedding band or some such. It is even possible that if you dead short a fresh battery that the battery will explode. Regardless of what it might do to you, think what all that battery acid will do to the paint on your beautiful Jaguar.

After disconnecting the ground side of the battery, disconnect the "+" side and if it was the terminal on the firewall, remove the nut from the stud. Clean all the connections with a safe solvent and then reassemble all the connections. After everything is tightened down spray all the terminals with WD-40 or a similar product to prevent corrosion.

Cowl Vent Drains

On the front of the firewall there are two soft rubber hoses that seem to come out of the firewall and go nowhere (bending down). These are drains for the cowl vent. If these get plugged the water will end up on your feet in the footwell. Usually on your wife's feet when she is in her best bib and tucker. Usually they will rot away before they plug up, but if you park under trees alot they may be a problem.

Fender Braces

Here at the firewall there is another item that can cause consternation. There are two braces that run from the center of the fenders (wings) to the center of the firewall forming a "V" shaped brace. These keep the fenders from flexing. If the bolt on either end of these braces is loose it can cause a "clunking" sound that will drive you nuts trying to trace it down.

If you have a "clunk" on either decelerating or accelerating that comes from the front of the car, check these bolts first. If that doesn't do the job then check the front shock absorber mounts on both ends and of course the upper wishbone inboard bushings.

Hood (Bonnet) Latches

A hood (bonnet) that won't stay down is a common problem with the XJ6. This is usualy caused by a missaligned latching mechanisum. There are two common reasons for missalignment.

First, if one side stays down but the other pops up it can be caused because one of the two latch pins in not in proper vertical alignment. Check by sighting across the car to see that the two pins are parallel. Adjust the one that is not holding until it matches the good one. A couple of whacks with a rubber mallet either toward the windshield or toward the grill may fix your problem. If the problem is not missaligned latch pins it may be either a loose and missaligned latch or the hinge at the front.

The loose latch is easy to find and correct the hinge is less obvious. There are three bolts that hold the hinge to the bonnet. With age and a high humidity location like England, area around where these bolts go through the hood (bonnet) into the captive nuts becomes rusty and the holes get larger. The hood (bonnet) begins to shift around until it does not aligh with the latches. This can result in the hood (bonnet) getting stuch shut. If this is the problem, grabbing the rear edge of the hood (bonnet) and the headlight in opposite hands and shaking the unit back and forth will eventualy free the latch. Obviously something needs to be done to correct the problem after you have it open.

More information on the XJ6 hood latches can be found on the JagWeb.

Windshield

The windshield on the XJ6 is an area of constant leaking if you live in a hot climate where the rubber deteriorates quickly. Replacing the rubber gasket every 5 years should keep it from leaking. But who wants to do that especially when you are 100 miles from home and the water leaks only over your spouses lap, but not on your side of the car?

A Quick Fix

There is a quick fix if the leak is coming from the top of the windshield. This fix will tend to become permanent, at least until your spouses lap gets wet again. I have found that the plastic electricians tape, black, will seal the top of the gasket nicely. The tape should be placed mostly on the rubber gasket with about 2 mm extending onto the roof of the car. If you take a razor and carefully trim the ends the tape will be almost invisible. Be sure to clean the area well before putting the tape on and press the tape down firmly to make sure it will stick tight and not come loose when a 120 mph wind starts blowing over the edge of the windshield.

Windshield Wipers

Gregory Andrachuk submitted this analyses of the problem of windshield wipers not parking:

About wipers on Series IIIs. A weak point. Non parking can be due to: failed parking switch on wiper motor (easy and inexpensive to replace, but not usually the problem), or a problem with excessive end float in the wiper motor itself, causing the parking switch not to be properly contacted, or most likely a broken ground wire in the column switch itself. This seems to be the problem on my own car; I replaced the parking switch to no avail, and the wiper motor is rebuilt.

 

Next is the Engine and Transmission


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