Gaiters
Gaiters

For my MkV DHC, I used the old gaiters as a pattern and cut new leather
that I bought from a Tandy Leather store. The I went to a shoemaker supply
company and bought the hook eyes. Punched about a jillion holes and then
riveted the the hookeyes into the holes. Laced the whole think up with
rawhide that I got from Tandy and mounted the original grease fittings
from the old set of gaiters. Looks great and the whole things costed like
$20. It's really pretty easy....Hell I did it! (Translation....Anyone can!)
- David M. Drenzek
Nice goin'! - Larry Schear, Twin Cam, Inc
David, If you kept the old gaiters would it be possible to get a copy
of the tracing and a list of the other supplies (thickness of leather,
size of hook eyes, grease fittings, etc.) you used? Even though this would
be for my XK-120 DHC and not a MlV the general form could be adapted. Unless
someone else in the group would have a pattern for the XK's springs. -
Regards, Jeff Kelley-Day
Jeff If you are stuck, I can supply the pattern. I have the original
spring gaiters in a box in the archive and can do a quick pattern for you
- I'll have to do up patterns in any event when I get around to making
up a new set myself. David, your post was inspirational. I have been looking
for a couple of square feet of leather with which to make a set of spring
gaiters for years ... never thought of Tandy. I have also been looking
for the eye hooks - in the wrong places, apparently. Good stuff. - Nick
Saltarelli, 1954 XK120SE OTS, 1968 E-type 1.5 OTS
Nick, If the 120 gaiters are the same for the 140 and you are making
paper patterns could I also be favored with a set. - Thanks, Klaus Nielsen
Good morning all, Looks like lots of interest in these gaiters,...which
leads to the question... Could we do an e-pattern? Have the pattern on
the site,...print it out and voila, shazam, a pattern for each of us with
a bill of materials for hooks, and whatever. ??? I'm interested too, but
first I have to put together that pesky door! THIS CHRISTMAS FOR SURE!!!
:-) Let's see what the site can do for us. I guess that kinda means some
extra work for Dick White. Sorry Dick, but maybe it wouldn't be too much.
??? - Thanks, and a good day to all, Ken Boetzer
As a point of interest, I discovered in recent years that while the
120 gaiters lace along the bottom of the spring with the grease fittings
on the top, the 140 gaiters lace on top of the spring with grease fittings
on the bottom. The 140 configuration certainly makes more sense as far
as the intended distribution of the grease. On my 120, the grease just
seems to lay there under the gaiters on the top leaf. A lower viscosity
grease than the recommended Mobil 5, etc., would seem to make more sense
as far as getting lubricant to flow between the leaves. Has anyone tried
an alternative to tne recommended chassis grease? Bill Tracy in Sarasota,
Florida (FAX 914-923-9616) has had gaiters available at $169.00 for the
4 piece set. Hard to beat David Drenzek's ingenuity in making his own.
I have (4) used rear springs sets that came from 140 FHCs. They would of
course fit 120s, too. Heavy to ship, but if anyone is interested I'll send
one or all of them to you for $20 ea US plus shipping. - Dick Cavicke
Aye to all of the above. What can I do to help? - Klaus Nielsen, 140FHC
I may have kept the old gaiters.......but....finding them may be a little
problem although I generally dont throw anything away (ask my wife!) I
will attempt to look in all 79 places that I keep parts......it may be
awhile... - David M Drenzek
I will dig up my 120 gaiters this weekend and make a pattern then. Posting
on the site is a good idea. Perhaps the best way to do that is to superimpose
the patterns on a grid, say 1 cm. squares, from which a working pattern
can be adapted. If not, I can mail them out. Those of you with 120's who
are interested (the 140 has a different setup), let me know. - Nick Saltarelli
Mr. Saltarelli, I would be very much interested in obtaining a drawing
or pattern. I think a good drawing could be shared more easily than a pattern
and would best serve the cause. We have built some amazing things from
bar napkin sketches here in the States. Ha! Ha! I wonder if we could find
a real drawing from Jaguar so that we could make our own or re-produce
them. The company I work for has a $500,000.00 laser that can cut them
out if we can make over 100 pc. or so, but the cost may be high. Our laser
can cut just about anything. steel, wood, plastic, stainless steel, but
the only problem is that we run high volume or high profit jobs only. I
am sure we could find a leather shop that would make some prototypes to
try before production then I could have the guys in the shop run them when
we are slow. ( if that ever happens) - E. W. Blake
Nick, Why not do a good sketch and send it snail mail to Dick to scan?
- Regards, John Elmgreen
There are 14 pieces of leather in one set of gaiters. There are also
two canvas strips for the flys and four felt strips for the ends. I am
in the process of making drawings. I talked to a local leather expert.
He says they are vegetable tanned cowhide and ordered a hide for me. Thickness
is about .035". There are 64 hooks for lacing which are .25"
wide. I thought these would be brass but they are in fact steel (verified
with a magnet). I talked to a cobbler about getting some for me but I didn't
have a sample withe me at the time so that's not confirmed yet. I have
a scanner but I'm concerned about the size of a reproduction after scanning,
processing through a couple of computers, and printing out on the other
end. I can include a scale in the scan to verify true size on the other
end. I am also concerned about how much memory will be tied up in about
five 8.5 X 11 scans. I'll play around with that and report later. Note
the spelling: gaiter (not gator - and since I am an alumnus of FSU, I would
rather not have casual references to the rival football team in this digest
:). I didn't expect this much interest in gaiters when I brought this up
but I love it. It's great fun showing these to people like the leather
worker and the cobbler - they are just fascinated and delighted to help.
BTW - I suspect that "massaging" the gaiter after inserting grease
might have been a regular practice to work the grease down around the leaves
and I plan to do that after they are restored. I assume the lacing should
be snug but not tight when they are installed to allow the grease to get
around the sides of the top leaf and also to avoid stretching the leather
too much. Does anyone know whether the original gaiters were tanned with
any color? I am assuming they were just left the natural color obtained
with the vegetable process but they could have made them black to match
the color of other stuff in the area. Since they are now saturated with
grease and dirt, it is hard to tell. -- Bruce Cunningham, '53 XK120 OTS
Bruce, It was mentioned in one of the replies that Neoprene something
and metal clips were needed to complete the job. Also, someone noted that
Guy Broads gaiter offerings include a 6-way lubrication device. If, as
it appears, this initiative will lead to full coverage of the "do
gaiters yourself" process, might it not be in order to elicit help
to cover the Neoprene, Clips and Lubrication neeeds also. - Regards, Klaus
Nielsen, 140FHC
Bruce, This may be a repeat. If so, my apologies. The gaiter numbers
are the same for the 140, C 3877(front) and C 3878(rear). I'll leave the
seam up/down dispute to my betters. Do you need extra parts, bit and pieces
to facilitate lubrication without taking the gaiters off every time. -
Thanks, Klaus Nielsen
I bought replacement gaiters from Bill Tracy a couple of years ago and
the lacing from Bill Bassett for my 120 OTS. The gaiters were pricey ($159
US) but I didn't want to take the time to remake a set on my own. So, I'm
satisfied with that decision. As has been discussed before, I think many
of these decisions, that is to buy or redo/remake, depends upon one's time,
money, capability, tools, etc. With the completion of a body-off 150 FHC
restoration, rebuild of a 150S engine, repainting of a 150 OTS, reinstalling
the cylinder heads on my SIII E-Type 2+2, all planned and being worked
upon simultaneously this winter (and this work will spill over to early
summer), my plate is very full and my wallet thinning as usual. I won't
be able to fit in the making of a set of gaiters for the other 120 OTS.
But the interest is there! - Bob Oates
I ordered my new springs from Bill Bassett. I talked to him today about
the design and gaiters. The new springs that he sells are made with pads
between the leaves. The bands around the springs are not the original U
clamps with bolts. These are somewhat modern parts - not original designs
but meeting original specs. Bill has never put gaiters on new springs as
they have no practical value. If they are going to be added, it is essentially
for appearance and pumping grease into them is not going to have any benefit.
He advises saturating them with neatsfoot oil before installation and just
removing them if you really want to lubricate the leaves - which is not
necessary if there are pads in there anyway. With springs that don't have
pads between the leaves, some kind of oil with both penetrating and sticking
qualities should be sprayed on them and then the gaiters can be replaced.
I'm going to proceed with making a new set because I like the way they
look. I have one drawing scanned into the computer and I'm going to put
it on my home page probably some time tonight for viewing and comments.
Stay tuned. -- Bruce Cunningham
Bruce and all: The gaiters from my low mileage original 120 are black
- no question. Since Bruce has offered to see what he can do with a pattern,
I will await the outcome of his efforts before submitting one myself. -
Nick Saltarelli
Bruce - Your gaiter drawings turned out beautifully. I gather you put
page breaks where they should be, because my printout of the drawings are
well organized print-wise. I was not involved in the xk-lovers gaiter notestring,
but I, too, need to replace the gaiters on my 53 XK120 so these drawings
are going to be a great help. You'll probably get more hits on your web
page than you ever thought. By the way, nice web page(s). Good luck on
your State Senate run next year. Thanks again. Your effort is much appreciated.
- Glenn C, OKC
The full set of patterns (5 pictures / 14 pieces)for gaiters are now
on my home page - or you can go directly to them at http://www.together.net/~bcunning/jag.htm
I still think hard copies by snail mail will be the most practical way
to get copies of them - as long as the demand is not very high (and I don't
expect it to be), I would be willing to send out a reasonable number of
them at no charge in response to e-mail requests. - Bruce Cunningham
May I trouble you for a set. Also, if it is pertinent, could you find
time to address the "neoprene rings and metal clips" issue. Thanks.
- Klaus Nielsen, 140FHC
The metal straps with apparently neoprene liners were on the springs
that I removed from the 120. Judging from the parts book, these were not
original springs as those appear to have U-shaped metal clamps secured
by bolts. The expandable pockets in the gaiters were apparently there to
allow room for these original metal clamps as the "ears" on the
pockets are about the same shape as the corners on the metal clamps. My
gaiters being laced with bare wire are another indication that the springs
had been replaced before I got the car. BTW - I'm still looking for information
regarding the original lacing material. Was it rawhide or something else?
- Bruce Cunningham
Bruce, The advantage of having the car up on blocks with the wheels
and fenders off is that the gaiters are easily accessed. Mine are laced
with string - about .05" thick. - Mike Eck, '51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8
MKII
Bruce, The original gaiters on my 120 fhc are laced with rawhide. -
Mike Plechaty
Mine are laced with a strong, black nylon weave string, about the diameter
of oxy-acetelene welding rod. - Nick Saltarelli
Bill Bassett sold me lacing material which I installed so long ago that
I can't recall whether it was leather or vinyl. You might ask him. - Bob
Oates
My gaiters, presumably (ha!) original (gaiters, anyway) are laced with
wire. Regards, John Elmgreen
If you went to a Concours event gaiterless would you loose ass covering
(points) My question is directed at the US folks as I believe the judging
is different in the US as compared to Australia. - Neville Laing
Hello folks, Mr. Metaphor here: Recall the classic image of the WW1
doughboy. His boots were wrapped with material as well as his legs near
to the knee. Given the classic mud, a smart idea. The wrappings are gaitors.
Especially popular in the late 19th and early 20th century were leather
or cloth covers over the upper part of the shoe, over the laces or buttons.
These are spats or shortened gaitors. The word spat is actually a shortened
version of the word spatterdash. David Z333 (Next time Mr. Metaphor will
explain what sports cars buffs have to do with bison.)
The gaiters on my Mark V have brown cotton string lacing, about 3/32
inch (2 mm) diameter, definitely original. - Rob Reilly
I really love this forum..... we cover so many topics! Anyway, over
'ere, where proper English is as she is spoke...... (Well, c'mon, guys,
there are enough jibes about Why don't the British etc, that I couldn't
resist it! .... ;-)))) ) them funny wrappin's around the legs wot the limeys
used to keep French mud out of their boot wos and iz called GAITERS. -
Dick Clements, '51 Mk V 3.5l Saloon (that also has its tongue in its cheek
right now!)
Part of the pleasure of working on this old car is reading the British
names for its parts. I think the nave plate is what we call a hub cap.
I finally cleaned up the garage today and cleaned and reorganized my tool
box. It's kind of a ritual I go through - like scrubbing up before surgery.
Anyway, I removed the rear springs which I was going to have rebent to
get the rear up to its original height. The off side spring was not just
tired, though - it was dead. Two broken leaves. I don't know what was keeping
it together as they were the two top leaves. I ordered a new pair. Since
a new pair of gaiters costs almost as much as the springs, I'm going to
try restoring these. The near side is in pretty good shape but the off
side will need some repairs. Does anyone know a good way to clean and soften
gaiters. I know what to do with the upholstery but leather saturated with
grease probably needs some special treatment. Much of the leather is still
pretty soft and flexible but some of it is a little stiff. It seems like
soaking it in water and then scraping it clean and working in a leather
conditioner might work. - Bruce Cunningham, '53 XK120 OTS
try neatsfoot oil on the back side of the leather..the skin side that
is not finished. This might work. john shuck..beijing
Bruce, Are your gaiters still in good enough shape to allow a set of
paper patterns to be made from them. Regards - Klaus Nielsen
Correct: "nave plate" = "hub cap" - Dick Clements,
'51 Mk V 3.5L Saloon
Bruce: Years ago when I refurbished the interior of my Triumph TR3a
(now deceased), I cleaned the leather with saddle soap and water, then
conditioned it. If your leather is in good shape, not cracked, you might
try a good degreaser - just to remove the greasy spots. It might remove
suppleness from the leather, so don't use it where you don't need it. You
shouldn't have to use a lot. When clean, use saddle soap or a leather conditioner
to restore the suppleness. I wouldn't soak the leather in water, because
water and the degreaser will, I believe, remove the oils from the leather
that make it soft. Regards - Ben Harris
A pattern for the gaiters is not as simple as it may sound. The springs
have three metal bands around them (one ahead of the axle and two behind)
with apparently neoprene liners. The gaiters have fairly intricate expandable
"pockets" built in to provide room for these bands. To make a
pattern, the gaiters have to be disassembled into 5 and 9 pieces respectively
and patterns made of all the pieces. Once that is done, instructions would
be needed to stitch the pieces together - best done by having an assembled
set as an example. I have one set in fair condition to use for patterns
and the poor condition set can then be used as the example for putting
the pieces together. When I get the fair ones apart, I would be happy to
make paper patterns - in fact I would probably do that anyway to make it
easier to cut the leather. If you are not in a hurry, I will send you a
set - maybe within a couple of weeks. I have until the salt is gone to
get the car on the road so I'm not in a great hurry right now. BTW - one
of the gaiters in my fair set is a little stretched out of shape because
of the broken spring leaf distorting it for a while but I'm pretty sure
I can compensate for that in making the pattern as the outer edges were
apparently straight lines originally. Update - as I was writing this, I
decided to go to the garage and disassemble my fair set - easier than I
expected as the stitching wasn't as strong as 45 years ago. The hide looks
like pigskin to my inexpert eye. Anyone know for sure? I'm going to take
this sample to an expert to find out what this is. The thickness of the
hide is about .035" and the boot hooks are .25" wide. All the
pieces are smaller than 8.5 X 11" so the patterns can be done on regular
sheets of paper. I'll probably make patterns this week. - Bruce Cunningham
Bruce, If you embark upon making the patterns, is there a way to show
the differences between respectively the 140 and the 120 type gaiters.
I gather that they do vary at least in the way they lace together above
or below the springs. Thanks - Klaus Nielsen
My "Fast Orange" hand cleaner caught my eye when considering
cleaning gaiters. It contains aloe, lanolin, and jojoba for skin conditioning
and the gaiters are skins. After scraping the leather with a dull blade
to remove much of the grease and dirt, I put a handful of the hand cleaner
in a bucket of hot water and worked the gaiters around with a stick. This
removed a lot of the dirt and grease.I then put the gaiters on a flat surface
and rubbed liberal amounts of the hand cleaner into them. After thorough
rinsing and gentle drying, the leather is very soft and supple. I would
further condition them with neatsfoot oil if I intended to restore them
but I am only going to use them for patterns. - Bruce Cunningham
I have to question whether the 140's were laced on top. Could someone
have installed them upside down? Laces on the top would allow water to
enter the top and be held inside the gaiters as there would be no drain
on the bottom. In addition, how would the lubricant work its way up from
the bottom? In any event, I don't see how the design would be any different
if they were supposed to be laced on top as the springs are somewhat symmetrical
top to bottom - at least symmetrical enough to allow the flexibility and
stretchability of the hide to accomodate any assymetry. My 120 parts book
says C.3877 and C.3878 for front and rear gaiters. Is the 140 part no.
different? - Bruce Cunningham
Bruce, Kudos for your insight. Having grown up in Scandinavia and lived
17+ years in New England engendered the same questions about "leaks
from the top"; but fearing that too much naivity would show, I held
my piece. I will peruse the 140 parts book for a part number tonight. Regards
- Klaus Nielsen
my 54' 120 gators are laced on top... I do not know if they are original.
- Neil Skipper
My gaitors are laced on the bottom. Just replaced with new ones from
Guy Broad with an unusual grease fitting (six-sided) which works nicely
as the grease gun tip locks onto the fitting. - Allan Derry, XK 120 OTS
oct. '52
Last i read Webco in England still selsl the gaitors for XK's. Webco
was the original manufacturer and supplier to Jaguar. Why reinvent the
wheel, go with the original. - David Pritchard
isn't it WEFCO with a F - Terry Mcgrath
My new rear springs from Bill Bassett have two clamps around the leaves
both front and back and none of them are in the same locations as the original
expanded pockets in the gaiters. After making all those patterns for original
spring gaiters, I'm now going to improvise and fabricate one piece front
and rear gaiters for each spring. The clamps on the springs are heavy metal
straps bent around the leaves so they are not as bulky as the original
U-shaped clamps secured by bolts and they are installed at the ends of
leaves so they are in a bit of a recess that accomodates them without much
protrusion. This is going to save me a lot of cutting (which I was going
to do myself)and stitching (which I was going to have to pay for). I will
still keep these patters and send them to anyone who is interested in making
new gaiters for original springs. Our 120 is not a show car (it's driven
about 7,000 miles per year) so I am not very concerned about points - but
does someone know what a judge's attitude would be about gaiters in the
original style by made to fit a non-original spring? Do they even care
whether the gaiters are there at all? BTW - Bill told me the springs would
have pads between the leaves but they do not which pleases me - closer
to original that way. They do conform to the original camber specification.
When I get them installed, I'll let you know what the distance from frame
to floor is. I assume it should be 7.125" to agree with the torsion
bar adjustment spec. - Bruce Cunningham
Neville: Whereas the Australians actually examine and score the underside
of the cars, the current JCNA concours scoresheets do NOT include or require
judging anything on the underside of the car, even if it's visible. Therefore,
gaiters aren't judged (brakes, lower suspension, most of the exhaust system
and Bruce C's dripper are excluded, too). To emphasize the US/AUS difference,
until this past year JCNA judges were only allowed to judge from a standing
or stooped position. This made it difficult to properly examine the interiors
or even the wheels and tires. In 1997 the rules were modified allowing
judges to kneel, but the underside is still not judged. Now, "garter
judging" would be something else!.... Sorry, but there's got to be
some humor here somewhere. - Dick Cavicke
GARTER JUDGING!!!,...Now we're getting somewhere! I thought the gaiters
were flocking in preparation for some kinda migratory activity. This would
require some vigilance on all our parts to avoid hazardous situations.
What with their feeding habits which inevitably lead to other problems
leaves us with double the opportunities for danger. Now garters on the
other hand...No news on the diaphragm front. :-) - Ken Boetzer
Hi Dick Cavicke & all -- don't know about humor, but JCNA rules
are to encourage DRIVEN cars as opposed to "trailer queens" --
thus, no underbody (where the driving dirt happens). I'm sure someone more
creative than I can come up with a chuckle or two about this difference
between North America and Australia standards! Larry Martz
Larry, There is eveything to be said for the enouragement of driven
cars vs trailer queens, but some would say that even if a concours entrant
will not be marked down for dirt etc underneath (or, to be consistent,
on top), it should still aspire to top standards of originality. Why should
the spring gaiters not be an item to be checked, driven car or trailer
queen? Regards - John Elmgreen
Hi John Elmgreen & all -- John, the reason for not judging gaiters
on XK120 is that the judges can't SEE them if they follow the JCNA rules
-- "Judges are permitted to stand, bend over at the waist or kneel
to inspect judged items." Try seeing XK120 gaiters from one of these
allowed positions, and you'll see why they're NOT judged in JCNA. Happy
Xmas & take care -- Larry Martz
One for John Elmgreen and Terry McGrath! I have been told that gaiters
were
not fitted to the rear springs on XK150s. On looking through a "Brooklands
Books" publication, "Jaguar Cars 1955-1957" there is a reprint
of an
Autocar road test darted 24 May 1957 containing a line drawing of the
chassis which clealy shows gaiters fitted. Please comment. - Regards Col
Haywood
Col - You noted that it was a line drawing. The illustration was probably
a little artistic license. - Bob Oates
Col, I'm not an expert on the subject of gaiters but I would not put a
lot
of faith in early magazine articles. Especially if it is a line drawing
as
opposed to a photograph. Articles for publication generally must be
submitted months in advance. Product managers must scramble for material
and often send what they can get their hands on. It's often preliminary
and although well intended some things just never get into production or
get changed. My experience comes from being a computer product manager
but
I have a feeling automobile product managers aren't much different, even
40
years ago. By the way pictures of computers in magazines are almost always
plastic mock-ups. I don't think I've ever sent in a picture of a real
computer. - Dick White
Col Haywood, Thanks for the very observant note re the line drawing of
the
road test 150. I can't explain it. The parts book does not list gaiters
for the 150 and I would say it is generally accepted that they did not
have
gaiters. Maybe it was artistic licence, or the car as a very early car,
had them, but not generally in production. - Regards, John Elmgreen

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