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Fenderwelting

Fenderwelting


Mike Carpenter wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for authentic XK fenderwelting? In the past,
I've tried the plastic and rubber reproductions, painted to body color, but
it never looks like the original.

Believe it or not J.C Whitney. I compared original XK-150 to the parts they
sell for VW bugs and it is an exact match. Don't kknow about 120 or 140's.
I think it even comes in colors. Two packs (about $18.00) did my OTS with
some left over.
Hope this helps
- L J Haithcock
  S830794DN
  XK-150S OTS

Try Norman motors in London  
100 Mill Lane 
London NW6 
Fax1717945034
or 
Guy Broad in Coventry 
fax 1676542427 
or 
Turley's Interiors, 
tlf.1676541309 (England).
- Allan Derry

BritAuto U.S.A (1-800-452-4787) supplies plastic fenderwelting in 7 colours.
- ??

The original hollow almost-half-round brass mouldings were brazed to the
bottoms of the fender wheel well arches, front and rear of the arch, toward
the underside, where the fender wraps under the car, and secured to the
arch section above with a series of pins which were pushed through tiny
holes (less than 1/16") in the flat part and then bent over. If you have
replacement mouldings and are trying to fasten them in place, and they do
not have the pins for original-type fastening, I would probably use
double-face EPDM tape - the same kind used to fasten today's body side
moldings in place. Brazing around the arch would be too risky (bead and
filler melt at about the same temperature - like trying to solder two
pieces of solder together - possible, but 'challenging!') - epoxy would be
an alternate (PC-7 or equivalent); the area receives quite an impulse shock
load, and the EPDM tape has a bit of 'give' to it - preferable. I
discovered this the hard way once - fell asleep at the wheel while driving
home from a date on a divided highway (actually, the date was somewhere
else!) - the road curved off to the right and I went straight - hit the
center island and came to with stars moving vertically in front of the
windshield (nose up in the air and all!) - when the front end hit the
ground again, all the loose junk in the cockpit filled the air! Stopped
without incident, got out, examined self, car, scene, convenient telephone
pole, etc. - only damage, visible or not, was the two rear wheel well arch
brass moldings! Both torn loose throughout the arch and fastened by the
bottom brazed joints only! I applied the inevitable racing tape to hold
them in place for the trip home. Later tried epoxy, but it shook loose.
Finally removed them completely, as car had previously been converted from
wire wheels to disk ones (another story!). Current owner has restored wire
wheels - I'll have to ask him about the mouldings! Car is now cherry, so he
must have done something!

Sorry about the overly-long answer - Oh, Diane (my date that night) finally
bought me an alarm watch, so I could catch some ZZZZs if I ever felt sleepy
on a drive home in the future - resolved the situation by marrying her and
removing the anxiety of wondering if the brass mouldings would ever shake
loose again! That was about 30 years ago, and I'm glad to say neither of us
has been traded in yet!
- Larry Schear
  Twin Cam, Inc.

I was waiting for Larry to reply before offering my limited experience. I
replaced one brass arch molding which I'm quite certain I got from
Bassett's. The replacement moldings may be hollow, solid, or filled. The
main portion of the arch had holes drilled completely through the molding.
The holes matched the existing holes in the wing/fender. Short pop-rivets
are used from the inside of the fender. The expanded heads of the rivets
remain within the hollow/center portion of the molding. The holes on the
outside of the molding are then either leaded or filled with a body filler.
The bottom edges, where they turn under the fender, must be flattened and
brazed or otherwise securely attached. It wasn't too difficult.
- Dick Cavicke
updated 6/20/98
A non-online friend who is in the process of restoring an always white 120
DHC has asked my to confirm the correct colour of rear fender welting,
i.e., body colour or black.  Any input would be appreciated. - Brian Pel

I would have to go with body color.  I have a piece of the original light
metallic blue that was in my 51 and that sure wouldn't have been used
unless they meant it to match the color as black would have sure been
easier to use. - Larry J, 660636

Brian, Fenderwelting is body colour.  Whether it is Rexine covered cord or
plastic depends on what date it was made (cut off Apr 53).  What are the
numbers of the car etc? - Regards, John Elmgreen

Larry,  the light blue you have, is it plastic or Rexine (leathercloth)
wrapped around cord?  Any chance of a sample of what's left? - Regards,
John Elmgreen

John, The fender welting is like a leather cloth. It had the twisted brown
cord in it. I will be bringing it to XK50. I was replacing the original
cork gas cap seal and in the process of cleaning the cap I found the metal
to be chrome plated. It was then painted black, then body color. The body
color is under the cork gasket. Evidently, they put the gasket on after the
car was painted so the gasket wouldn't get painted.  They probably painted
the chrome because it would be hard for the glue to stick to the chrome.
This was more surprising to find then the brass horn covers. - Larry J,
660636

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