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150 Shocks

XK 150 Shocks

I'm interested to know what type of shocks are being used on 150's. I've
gotten varying opinions ranging from Konis to Spax to Woodhead. Any
comments would be greatly appreciated.
- Ron Gaeta
  150 dhc

Koni's work fine - fit with no problems - I still have a set from my '55
XK-140 - used but were good when removed (about 20 years ago!)
('affordable' if you're interested).  Spax (Spafax?) were also available -
mounting is 'standard' and conventional, so I beliueve any modern shock
(Gabriel or Monroe) will work fine.  Sears used to sell a good lifetime
replacement, too, but the have stopped having their own brand.  If you're
seeking a brand for a show car, I'd recomment either Koni or the Spax, for
'originality' with period avai lability; Monroe etc. came later.  If for a
driver, either Koni (from experience) or any gas-filled shock.  The Konis
are adjustible for stiffness (compress the shock and turn the outer housing
to open or close the internal oil valve aperture; more closed (clockwise,
if I remember right, when viewed from the top) reduces oil flow, increasing
stiffness).
- Larry Schear
  Twin Cam, Inc.

Perhaps you can help me.  I bought a pair of Konis about 10 years ago, but
I have forgotten whether they are front or rear. Is there a visible
difference?
- Mike Morrin

Very visible! The fronts have loops/eyes top and bottom, with mounting
holes at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the shock. The rears have
a similar loop/eyelet at the bottom and a threaded bolt following the
longitudinal axis of the shock at the top.

Put 'em on - makes a world of difference!

- Larry Schear
  Twin Cam, Inc.

Mike, front shocks have a round pipe across the top which takes a rubber
bushing, rear have a threaded bolt that takes rubber washers and a nut on
top.
-  Don Tracey
I need to replace the rubber bushes at the bottom of Shock Absorbers of my
150.( Same as MK 7-9) I always found difficult to compress the bush in
order to fit the Split
Pin. The manual says = " ...using a hand clamp ..." Has anyone developped a
technic or a tool to do this without frustration.? Surely a nut instead of
a split pin would have been slightly more expensive but so much easier.
Thanks - Michel Gosset

Michel, You could thread the mounting pin and use a nylock at the risk of
authenticity. - George Badger

Michel, When I replaced the shocks on my 150, I used two pair of visegrips
to compress the bushes. With the washer on, I put one visegrip on either
side of the pin and locked them down. It was a little awkward at first, but
worked well. Good luck. - Ron, '59 150 dhc

I also fitted mine in exactly the same way as you Ron. The visegrips
slipped off a couple of times but it worked eventually. Must be the right
way if two of us have done it! - Peter Fielding, '55 140 DHC

Ref Shocks: A small valve spring compressor will compress the bushes and
still allow room to put the pin in. Worked for me. - Bruce Baysinger

Perhaps a pair of small C clamps acting on opposite sides of the washer.
Leave room to insert the cotter pin. Alternative, one big C clamp and a
short pipe nipple with a notch cut out of it to insert the cotter pin. I
like the valve spring compressor idea, but I guess not everybody has one. -
Rob Reilly

Michael, I used an old Valve spring compressor with an adaptor made out of
a short (1 inch) length of water pipe ( any tubing of the right diameter
will do) with two notches cut into it for the split pin to be inserted.  It
worked fine....a piece of cake! Regards - Col Haywood

I have used 2 pairs of Vice-Grip types of pliers, as Ron noted,  to
compress the washer on the mounting pin.  But the easiest method I have
used is with a pair of sheet metal clamping pliers.  While this is not the
exact name for this tool, one of the jaws has two fingers whch fit
perfectly around the mounting pin and clamps in a locked position to free
your hands.  Of course the cotter key can then be easily installed. - Bob
Oates

Michael Gosset, Never done it on a 150, but have been successful elsewhere
using a valve spring compressor.  There are a couple of different styles,
the cam clamp variety works easier.  Good luck. - Scott Selbach, '53
XK-120M FHC, S690701

You can make that "three of us".  I used the vise grip method around 30
years ago on my first 120.  Of course then, I only had one vise grip and
had to borrow one from my MG neighbor.
Some of the other methods sound interesting, though. - Larry J

Thanks to Rob reilly, Robert Oates and Colin Haywood for their answers on
how to change these bushes. I have used a large C clamp and a pipe nipple
with a notch to insert the
pin. - Michel Gosset

If you have any questions or comments send e-mail to: ted@jag-lovers.org
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