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Title: Boiling a broken fastener out of an Al casting with Alum
Owner: Andrew Waugh, added Oct 03 2013 16:02:34


[25]

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Description: Happens to everybody sooner or later, I should have used heat before even trying, but was trying to save the Otter switch.

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Description: Broken off flush with surface.

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Description: Drilled. It was one of those days... the bolt extracter broke off (also flush), in spite of having used Penetrating oil for 48 hour AND heat.

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Description: So I resorted to a trick from my other hobby (Horology). Alum from a pharmacy, you don't really need distilled water.

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Description: Double boiler using a deep fat fryer, Just below boiling would be best, but the tstat on the fryer is shot. Add Alum until no more will dissolve (about 200g/l)

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Description: You can just see it gassing as the Alum attacks the Iron. Arrange the piece so that the gas doesn't get trapped in the hole. Interestingly the Alum attacked the tool steel of the extractor _much_ faster than the vestigial remains of the screw - it was gone in about 10h.

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Description: Not wanting to leave it unattended overnight, I unplugged the fryer. Next morning the Alum had formed crystals.

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Description: After about 3o hours boiling in total, it had almost completely stopped outgassing, and I could feel the threads all the way down the hole with a dentists probe. Note how the Al has turned black where it was in the Alum. I _Think_ this is Iron(2) Oxide deposited on the Al at the molecular level.

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Description: So I tried a tap. I chose to use a bottoming tap, ran it with lots of cutting oil. I used only the lightest of effort, backing out at the slightest resistance, cleaning the hole and tap, and starting again.

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Description: Getting the black smut off was a bother. In the end I used abraisive pads and, W&D (800) and polish. The pits and impossible fillets are still black. Glass beading would probably have taken it off, but I haven't got the kit.

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