Title: Differential Removal and Installation - Part 2 of 4
Owner: Don B , added Feb 27 2013 16:32:46
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2200x2957 212kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: Once you remove the lower shock nuts and pivot bolts, the only things holding the IRS in are the rear dog bones (one bolt each) and the front subframe mounting brackets (four screws each).
1602x2278 205kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: You only need to remove the top dog bone bolts, which thread into fixed weld nuts on the body brackets, but you should also loosen the lower bolts so the dog bones can be repositioned to clear the exhaust without straining the rubber bushings. The dog bones are no longer available new…
3000x1913 219kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: The subframe mounting brackets are secured with four screws that thread up into the body.
3000x2006 220kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: Slowly and carefully lower the rear end, moving the dog bones as necessary to clear the exhaust, and moving the entire assembly rearward to disconnect from the drive shaft. Tie the driveshaft up to prevent strain on the U-joint and Driveshaft Center Bearing (now is a great time to replace that).
1335x807 213kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: The Diff Output Shaft studs on our ’93 are 7/16 in. thread. The original axle nuts required an 11/16 in. wrench, and the replacement nuts I get at a local hardware store require a ¾ in. wrench. The nuts are cheap, so I replace any that are corroded or scarred during the removal process.
2600x1323 229kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: If you jack the car up high enough, the IRS can be rolled straight back beneath the fuel tank, but I just pull it out through a wheel well. The first time I dropped the IRS, I removed the axles first, but now I just leave them installed. It’s easier to remove them with the assembly out of the car.
2200x1402 231kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: My son helped me lift the assembly onto saw horses for the initial cleaning. I used engine degreaser and a water hose, then followed with brake cleaner spray, Naptha and lots of paper towels.
3200x2029 224kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: “Look Ma, no wheels!”
4000x2053 225kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: Brett Gadzinsky says this assembly has “hundreds of bolts, washers, bushings and spacers.” It’s not quite that bad, but I did count around 100, so take plenty of photos to remind you where everything goes, especially the washers on fulcrum shafts that can easily be installed in the wrong position.
1810x2699 222kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: With the axles removed, I set the assembly on the bench for comfort and convenience during the remainder of the disassembly.
2250x1068 228kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: Only the top pendulum bushes are still available for replacement, but I managed to find a good price on a NOS pendulum complete with new bushings. Unfortunately, bushings for the rear wishbone tie and the dog bone braces are no longer available, so I had to reuse them.
3898x1466 216kb(If the image has failed to load, click on it to view large version) Description: Your newly rebuilt diff will probably come without the lower wishbone tie mounting studs, which are torqued to 200 lb-ft and further secured with Loctite. For increased leverage, I hooked a large box end wrench to my 30mm ratcheting wrench.
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