16 - Heating and Windscreen Equipment ( Chris Burdo,
June 7, 2005
16.1 - MK2 Windshield Chrome Installation ( George Camp,
July 31, 2005
George Camp writes on July 21,2005
With your fresh gasket and glass installed (make sure gasket is
as flush with body outer edge as possible) place chrome on top of
gasket and position both parts (cover clips off) so that the position
looks good. Using some tape secure the chrome to the glass/paint
or what ever you can. Using some small screws secure the chrome
strip to the gasket(make damn sure you do not go into the glass
with any force). Once this is satisfactory get rid of any tools made
of metal. Using a plastic glass tool or a good substitute work the
chrome into the inner lip of the gasket. You may have to move the
screws a time or two until you are happy. When you work the lower
corner on each side you will see why you do not want to use metal.
Continue to work the strips into the inner lip until you have completed
the task. When all is well remove the screws and clip on the finisher
clips. Optional---I then carefully tape the edge of the chrome and the
edge of the paint. I take a sealer called ultra black (dries to a gasket finish)
and fill the void between the chrome and paint. Some areas little
goes in but other areas may use up to a quarter inch. This perfects the seal
and closes the gaps. If done carefully NO one will notice. Best of
luck and be patient as the chrome may have come off the car but
the gasket is new.
16.2 - Windshield/Window Trim Installation ( Mike Eck,
October 29, 2002
It's been ten years since I put the headliner in my MK-I, here
is what I think I remember.
First; I don't recall it being all that difficult.
Second; There are wood strips along the roof line above the
doors, attached to the body with spiral nails.
Third; The metal "spike strips" are attached with screws to the
wood strips, the teeth face the wood and are on the bottom, the screw
holes are above the teeth on the top (does that make sense?). The
headliner material "pinches" between the teeth and wood. Seems like the
teeth are angled up just a little so you can push the headliner in,
but it can not be pulled back out.
Fourth; The headliner bows go through the "pockets" sewn into
the headliner and the bow ends go into holes along the roof line
above the doors.
Fifth; The rear window seal is what holds the headliner at the
Clean hands.... trying to get dirt off the headliner once it is
installed is a pain.
Put the bows through the pockets. Not all the bows are the same,
figure out where each one goes first.
Put the bow ends into the holes.
Starting from the middle (post between front and rear doors)
push the headliner material edges between the teeth and wood.
Do a little on the drivers side then the passenger side, then
move a little forward and then a little backward. The goal
being to keep the headliner centered.
You can always go back and shove a little more in to tighten the
headliner, but you can not pull it back out! I used a putty
knife to shove the headliner material in. I pulled the excess headliner
material edge out to the door frame, then held that extra material
while pushing the headliner between the teeth and wood with the putty knife.
Keep that little "flap" of material out until you are happy with the
headliner tightness, then shove it under the teeth or trim it off.
You're going to hold onto that flap so the when you shove with the
putty knife it pulls the headliner under the teeth.
NOTE: This is the official way to do the headliner at the rear
window and will insure that the window leaks... Put the headliner out
the rear window opening, install the windows seal over the headliner
material, install the window, trim the excess material hanging out the
back of the car.
I installed my rear window before the headliner and I just put
some weatherstrip adhesive under the window seal and used a
screwdriver to poke the headliner material under the seal and
into the glue, it's still there and the rear window doesn't leak!
Install the trim pieces.