Experience
in a Book
Headlight
Modifications
When you're driving your Jag down some desolate two-lane
blacktop road at 140 mph on a moonless night, it's helpful
to be able to see where you're going. Unfortunately, not all
headlight systems are up to the task. If you have the
US-spec four round headlights with the original sealed beam
units in place, I suggest you slow down.
Even if you obey all posted speed limits, you will be
amazed at what an adequate set of headlights will do for the
pleasure and enjoyment of nighttime motoring. Where you used
to have to squint and stare in hopes of seeing things in
time to avoid hitting them, you can now sit back and relax.
In fact, you may come to fully appreciate the advantages of
nighttime driving, with the reduced traffic and cooler
temperatures.
RELAY INSTALLATION: If you wish to improve the
headlights on your car, the first thing you should do
is install a set of control relays. This will improve the
light output of the stock headlights, whatever type they
are, and may just satisfy your need for better light -- and
is a perfectly legal modification. If you do decide to
replace your headlights with something with higher wattage
(as in some of the mods described below) you will not
be happy with the results unless you install control relays;
the additional losses in the stock wiring due to the
increased current flow will rob you of any increase in light
output.
The whole idea of installing relays is to get as much of
the battery/alternator voltage to the headlights as
possible, since a small reduction in voltage makes a big
reduction in light output on incandescent lights. Low
voltage also causes incandescent lights to appear yellowish,
which diminishes visibility even more.
Your objective, therefore, is to provide wiring that gets
the power from the battery/alternator to the headlights with
big fat wires and as directly as possible. Unfortunately,
that wasn't the objective of the guy who designed the wiring
for your car; his objective was to provide wiring as simply
and cheaply as possible, and sized just big enough to keep
it from melting. So, the stock wiring goes from the bus on
the firewall down to under the dash, through the headlight
switch, back to the front left corner of the car, through
the main/dip relay and the headlight fusebox, then out to
the four headlights -- all with wires that are barely
adequate for the sorry headlights that came with the
car.
A simple confirmation of the problem is to remove the
headlights from their mounts while leaving them connected,
start the engine, turn on the headlights and measure the
voltage right at the connections on the back of the bulbs.
The voltage there should be within a half a volt or so of
the voltage measured between the terminal on the firewall
and the chassis under the same conditions (headlights on,
engine idling). If the voltage is much lower, the
installation of relays will help the light output
considerably. If you'd like to confirm where the losses
actually occur, measure between different points along the
line, starting with the terminal on the firewall and
including both ends of each fuse in the headlight fusebox as
well as the terminals on the headlights. If you measure the
voltage between the terminal on the firewall and the power
connector on the headlight, you will be measuring the
total loss of the wiring system except for the ground
circuits. You can also measure parts of this loss, such as
between the fuse and the headlight, between the firewall
terminal and the fuse, even across the fuse itself. If you
measure the voltage between the ground connector on the
headlight and the chassis of the car, you will be measuring
the losses in the ground wiring (which are significant --
the ground wiring is inadequate, too).
If your voltage losses are too high, the solution is to
disconnect the wires from the headlights and connect them to
the coils of relays, run a massive power wire from the
terminal on the firewall to the common contacts on the
relays, and run substantial wires (with suitable fuses) from
the contacts on the relays to the headlights. Thus you
operate only the relays with the original wiring, and the
serious current for the headlights themselves takes a much
more direct route from the battery/alternator through the
relays to the bulbs.
This mod only requires the mounting of several relays and
running a serious cable from the terminal on the firewall to
whereever the relays are; this author used a 4 gauge, but a
6 gauge cable would actually be enough. The relays should be
mounted somewhere near the headlights to minimize wire
length; perhaps within the boxes directly behind the
headlights themselves. John Napoli suggests a big fuse in
that cable, since the relays are likely to be located out at
the front corner of the car and may be shorted by a
relatively minor collision, and the shorting of such a major
cable may cause serious problems.
Technically, you can do this whole job with only two
relays, one for low beam and one for high beam, but it may
be preferable to use two for high beam to keep from
overloading the contacts on a standard 30-amp relay. Of
course, you'll probably want to install a relay for the
fog/driving lights as well.
Having four individual fuses on circuits that operate
nothing but relays is definitely overkill. On the XJ-S, it
makes more sense to continue to use the existing headlamp
fusebox to serve the headlights themselves, so the relays
should be wired into the circuits before the fuses.
If necessary, the headlamp fusebox can be fiddled with by
drilling out the two rivets that attach the mounting bracket
to the fenderwell. The bracket isn't welded to the flange on
the edge of the engine compartment, just folded over it.
Removing the rivets allows the bracket to be lifted away,
which in turn allows the fusebox itself to be turned over
and the wiring rearranged. You can reinstall the bracket
with a couple of screws, making it easy to work on in the
future.
Tip for those with the 4-headlight system: The existing
wiring from the fusebox to the high beams on each side of
the car is inadequate for both high beams, but it's close
enough for one. So, one possibility is to run a new wire
(about 12 gauge) from a new relay to each side of the car
with a new inline fuse for one of these high beams and reuse
the existing wiring and fuse holder for the other high beam.
The small wire from the 3-prong connector right behind the
headlights to the headlight that's getting a new wire should
be tied back into the other headlight at the socket, so that
both of these skinny little wires are serving one
headlight.
This type of reconnection requires popping the spade
terminal out of the headlight socket, soldering the second
wire to it, and snapping it back into the socket. Each spade
terminal has a little tang on the back that holds it into
the socket, so you need to insert a pointy object between
the plastic and the terminal itself to depress this tang to
remove the terminal. You will also want to bend this tang
back into position before pushing the terminal back into the
socket, so it securely snaps into place.
Of course, when done changing which fuse serves which
headlamp you might need to revise the fuse sizes in the
headlamp fusebox. It's easy enough to divide the wattage of
each headlight by 12 volts to determine the amps that it
will draw, and install a fuse suitably sized to serve.
Be sure to provide adequate ground wires on the
headlights as well. That's easy to do, by either adding
additional wires or just replacing the ground wires entirely
and connecting the new wires to a screw into the chassis, of
which there are several handy right around the
headlights.
While relay installation may involve a couple hours of
fiddling, it is a very cost-effective improvement. The
relays themselves typically cost less than five bucks each,
and wire and fuses are also cheap.
UPGRADING HEADLIGHTS -- LEGAL CONCERNS: Before I
delve into actual headlight upgrades, I'd like to explain a
little about the evolution of headlight laws here in the US.
Back in the 1950's and 60's, automobile headlights seemed
like fertile ground for government control. Laws had been
established requiring all cars to have one of two types of
headlight systems: two 7" round headlights or four 5æ"
round headlights. It was this requirement that ruined the
appearance of the Jaguar XJ6, designed to have two 7" bulbs
plus two 5æ"; for the US market, the two 7" had to be
replaced with 5æ" with a filler ring around them. It
also is the reason the early US-spec XJ-S has two round
headlights on each side instead of the "Euro-style" single
lamp assemblies.
Also, the light output of headlights was limited. And all
headlights were required to be "sealed beam", meaning that
the entire headlight was the bulb itself, when it burned out
you had to replace the whole thing. The headlights also had
to have three little bumps on the front, used to check
alignment. On top of all this were general prohibitions on
more than four headlights or six head/auxiliary lights on a
car.
Sometime in the 60's they prohibited glass covers over
the headlights. This changed the appearance of the Jaguar
E-type and the Volkswagen Beetle.
In the early 70's, they added rectangular headlight
systems to the approved list, basically allowing two
arrangements of rectangular sealed beams.
With the advent of energy conservation concerns, the
automotive manufacturers were finally able to convince US
legislators in the mid 1980's to drop the requirements for
using standardized sealed beam headlights and permit the use
of "composite" headlight assemblies in the name of better
aerodynamics. These headlights have a lens/reflector
assembly that was custom-designed for the car (and usually
atrociously expensive), and the bulb itself is a smaller
quartz-halogen item that plugs into the reflector from the
rear.
Unfortunately, apparently the US DOT couldn't be
convinced to legalize the same composite headlights
that were being used in Europe, so the US-spec cars got
their own style of composite headlights. To this day, to be
fully legal in the US, your headlight lenses need to say
"DOT" on them. And most US-spec headlights seem to still
have three little bumps for alignment even when the front of
the headlight is sloped so some bumps are actually rearward
from others. There are still limits on light output.
I dunno what DOT's priorities are, but it's obvious that
they don't include providing good visibility at night or in
rain. DOT-spec headlights suck, not to put too fine a
point on it. And just to show that this is not a "grass is
greener" thing where everyone thinks people somewhere else
have it better, John Warr from the UK says, "You guys in the
US have to drive with the most appalling lights I
have ever come across. To someone used to Euro lights, the
first experience of US lights at night in the rain results
in a puzzled driver standing in front of his hire car trying
to work out what he has not turned on."
E-CODE: While the US DOT
conspires to keep drivers in the dark, the European
standards for headlights have evolved based on input from
major headlight and driving light manufacturers in an
attempt to provide truly excellent lighting. Headlights
meeting these "E-code" standards are indicated with a
capital letter E and a number with a circle around it on the
lens. According to Daniel Stern, the number indicates the
country in which the headlight was certified to meet the
code.
There are E-code headlights designed to replace any
standard US sealed beam, and they always seem to have a
distinctive pattern on the lens: there is a trapezoidal area
between the center of the lens and the edge on the driver's
side, with the fluting at an angle. These lights have a
distinctive pattern on dip beam, sending light down to both
sides and up towards the side of the road but not up
towards oncoming traffic.
Stern maintains a site on the WWW that, among other
things, describes the advantages of E-code headlights over
DOT headlights in considerable detail: http://lighting.mbz.org/faq
Before jumping in and upgrading your headlight system,
you might want to check the regulations in your state. Or,
you might wanna simply note how many citations are handed
out annually for illegal E-code headlight assemblies and
decide whether or not you wanna chance it. Stern says, "The
fact of the matter is that back in the '70s when all cars
had sealed beams, E-code lamps stuck out like sore
thumbs. But today, with the proliferation of so many
different headlamp designs, together with the elimination of
headlamp inspections in at least 48 states, nobody knows or
cares what kind of headlamps you're running." So, what's the
bigger risk to you: getting a ticket, or being unable
to see where you're going after sunset?
Stern also notes: "If you live in the US states of
Oregon, Washington, Alaska or Massachusetts, or in the great
nation of Canada, then E-code lamps are 100 percent
legal."
Note that many of the "H4 headlights" sold by J. C.
Whitney (page *) are actually
low-end E-code units and are described as "for off-road
use." That is how they can sell headlights that are
technically prohibited on public highways in the US; why the
upper left cutoff on low beam would be helpful in an
off-road application is never explained.
There are a couple other tricks that have been used; when
"sealed beam" headlights were required, J. C. Whitney sold
some "sealed beam H4" headlights; the rubber boot had been
glued on over the bulb socket making the whole thing sealed.
When the H4 bulb burned out, you just cut the boot away and
put in a new bulb.
FOUR ROUND HEADLIGHT IMPROVEMENT: If you have the
four round sealed beam headlights, your headlights suck --
trust me on this. Daniel Stern suggests that one quick and
easy improvement might be to merely replace the outer
high/low beam units with H5009's instead of H5006's. These
are 50/40W instead of the H5006's 35/35W. Unfortunately,
they are apparently pretty difficult to find. "I can supply
a lot of "unobtainium" bulbs, but not H5009's."
Another possibility may be the 50/50W H5812, "Althought
now we're back to the theoretical, because H5812s aren't in
current production."
You might consider replacing the whole assembly with the
later oblong composite single lamps. This is an expensive
change, however, and would probably only be considered by
XJ-S owners who prefer the appearance. Since these
headlights meet DOT specs, this mod should be perfectly
legal in the US. Improvement? Stern says, "This is a
tremendous, tremendous retrograde step in headlamp
performance. The transverse-filament 9004 performs worse
than many of the old sealed beams, even."
You might also replace the four headlights with one or
the other of the Cibie single headlight designs used in
Europe. Not legal on US roads, but will provide better
lighting. Note that, if you get the Euro lights, you can
also opt for the wiper/washer system for them, and even a
heated wiper/washer system to prevent freezing of the
washer fluid.
Will you get better visibility? Yes -- compared to the
sealed beams, anyway. However, John Goodman reports from the
UK: "Jaguar enthusiasts here actually change to the four
headlamp system because of improved lighting available."
Goodman isn't talking about installing four sealed beams;
he's talking about installing four 5æ" round E-code
units with H4 bulbs -- meaning the UK car goes from two H4
bulbs to four. If it's visibility you're after rather than
the appearance of the single headlight assemblies, perhaps
the easiest, cheapest and most effective improvement
is to replace the sorry sealed beams with far superior
E-code units using H4 halogen bulbs. These assemblies can be
purchased from J. C. Whitney for less than $20 each (H4 bulb
included!) and will fit right into the outer (main/dip)
headlight fixture with no modifications. Higher quality
units are available from Hella, Cibie, and other
manufacturers.
Note that this author has purchased a set of 5æ"
round H4 units from J. C. Whitney, and the lights that
arrived are labelled "Maxtel by JF", are made in
China, and have "E3" in a circle on the lens. It may be
important to some to know that, while these headlights fit
perfectly, their external appearance is slightly different
than the original sealed beams. Where the sealed beam has a
domed glass lens, the Maxtel has a "squared" lens with a
shoulder that protrudes straight out of the retaining ring
perhaps a quarter inch and then a very slightly domed front,
nearly flat faced. It's really pretty, but if you just get
two for the outer high/low positions it might not be
considered an ideal match for standard sealed beams in the
inner two positions.
Good solution: get four, and use the exact same lights in
the inner position by using the high beam filament of the H4
bulb only. If you are the type of person to keep spare light
bulbs handy, you will only need to carry one type of H4 bulb
to fit all four lights. And if a low beam filament burns
out, you can just trade bulbs around and use that one for a
high beam only.
Note that installing a high/low unit into the high beam
position (inner) will require cutting a relocated notch in
the support ring behind the headlight. As you look into the
hole where the headlight goes, the notch at the upper left
is in the wrong place and a new one needs to be cut about a
half inch clockwise. You can hold the new high/low headlight
up to the fixture, fit the other two feet into the
appropriate notches, and mark where you need to cut a new
notch. Alternatively, you could just buy a couple new mount
fixtures originally intended for the outer positions and
mount them in the inners. The electrical plug will work fine
as is; the two-connector plug will fit directly onto the
three-connector H4 bulb and operate the correct
filament.
The standard H4 bulb is 60/55W, which is a significant
boost over the 35/35W main/dip sealed beam halogens
(throughout this book, I endeavor to list the main beam
wattage first, the low beam wattage second. The J. C.
Whitney catalog often lists them the other way around). But
the chief advantage of the E-code units is that they have
much better focusing patterns; on low beam, you can pull the
car up to a wall and see that the pattern provides a
distinct cutoff to the upper left (on LHD cars), while still
providing plenty of illumination down and to the right. The
result is that oncoming traffic gets blinded less on low
beam, despite the higher power of the H4 bulbs.
H4 bulbs produce a brilliant white light. This is a
wonderful benefit, even beyond the actual light output.
Having everything in front of the car lit up with white
light instead of the yellowish light of conventional
headlights seems to make everything clearer.
With the legalization of composite headlights in the US
come the "9003" and "HB2" bulbs. These are both exactly the
same as the standard H4 except that they are DOT approved.
All three designations are commonly available, and
replacement bulbs can be found in the local auto parts store
or Wal-Mart; H4's are sometimes sold as "motorcycle"
headlight bulbs, and may actually cost more than the
identical 9003's right next to them.
Alternatively, you can replace the sealed high beam units
(the inner units on each side, H5001) with E-code high beam
assemblies that use H1 halogen bulbs. J. C. Whitney sells el
cheapo H1 headlights, too, and H1 bulbs are also available
anywhere that sells auto parts. Use of H1 high beams has the
advantage that, since the reflectors and lenses don't need
to be designed to facilitate both high and low beam
operation, they can be fully optimized for truly excellent
high beam operation. Stern recommends this method: "H4 high
beam: Lots of midrange fill light. Dedicated high beam:
Long-range throw. It's best to have both types and
there's no benefit to the H4/H4 setup (except in places like
Norway where pre-'79 vehicles can have up to four low beams
illuminated...rest of the world limits you to two.)" Since
the only advantages of using four H4's are minor (fewer
spare bulbs required, perfect appearance match), he may have
a point; if you'd like more "midrange fill light", you can
just upgrade the H4 bulbs (see below) rather than omitting
the long-range H1's in favor of additional H4's. This also
is a method of improving the low beam lighting, so using
four H4's might not even be all that good an idea in Norway.
Plus, you don't have to modify the notch in the support ring
to install the H1's.
Stern adds that, as with anything else, you get what you
pay for when buying E-code headlamps, and suggests you pony
up for the Cibie or Hella units rather than the J. C.
Whitney no-names. "Genuine European E-code headlamps perform
much better than the knockoff items, which often have
counterfeit E-marks and actually haven't been tested or
approved at all."
Stern describes E-code 5æ" round units from Cibie
and Hella: "The Cibie lamps are convex (dome) face lamps,
like the original sealed beams. The Hella lamps are
flat-faced." H4 high/low and H1 high beams are available
from both companies. Stern goes on to note that the Hella H1
is truly flat-faced while the Hella H4 has an extending lip
around the edge (similar to the Maxtels described above) so
the two Hellas don't really match each other perfectly. "The
difference in lens technique between the Hella H4 and the
Hella H1 creates a difference in installed appearance
between the two adjacent units. The Cibie H4 and H1 both use
convex lenses of the same curvature. Whether this is of
concern to you is a matter of individual taste. The Cibie H4
high/low units are equipped with city lights." The various
nuances of the Cibie and Hella headlights are discussed in
great detail on Stern's web site at http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/headlights/
"Cibie has just introduced a complex-shape-reflector
small-round setup with really impressive efficiency numbers.
Now all they need to do is get the price down below the
stratosphere (currently over $500 for a complete
setup...ouch!)
"There is a potential design compromise in the Cibie
lamps. The Cibie H4 weathershield can be installed in any
clock position, so one must pay careful attention to putting
it on such that the moulded-in word "TOP" is at the top,
else risk water entrapment and shortened reflector
life."
In installing E-code headlights, we have vastly improved
the lighting without having significantly changed the
outward appearance of the car. If you still want
better visibility you can add more driving lights, but it
might be a better idea to opt for non-standard H4 or H1
bulbs -- see below.
John Goodman provides a different suggestion regarding
the 4-headlight arrangement: "I would prefer the outer lamps
to be the permanent dipped beam units as in the BMW's, i.e.
The H1 single filament bulbs, because the reflector shape is
different being solely designed for dipped use only, gives a
better light pattern. This arrangement needs mods to the
headlamp relays so they stay on when the inner main beam
units are activated." No problem; a jumper between terminals
56 and 56b on the main/dip relay will do it.
For people like Goodman wishing to retrofit the
four-headlight system into a non-US car but who drive on the
wrong side of the road (UK, downunder, Japan), note that you
must get headlights with low beams that cutoff the upper
right. The boxes the Maxtel headlights from J. C.
Whitney came in indicate that they are available in either
RHD or LHD versions, but J. C. Whitney apparently doesn't
offer any headlights for RHD cars. I'm sure there are
suppliers of suitable units in your countries, and the same
type of improvements should be possible.
HEADLIGHT AIMING -- FOUR ROUND HEADLIGHT SYSTEM:
Another nifty feature of having four separate headlights is
that you can get creative aiming them. The outer high/low
units probably should be aimed pretty much as normally
specified to ensure that oncoming drivers are not blinded.
If E-code units are installed, this becomes both more
important and more acceptable, since the E-code lights have
a very sharp cutoff indeed; a little too high and you're
blinding people, a little too low and you're not lighting
the road very far ahead, but just right and you get
excellent visibility for low beams. Unfortunately, aiming
the low beams accordingly will determine where the high
beams end up, so you have limited options there.
Fortunately, E-code high/low units seem to provide excellent
high beam patterns when low beams are aimed properly.
The inner high beam units have more flexibility. If it is
presumed that they are never on when there are cars out
there that may be blinded, you can aim them pretty much
whichever direction you wish. One suggestion might be to aim
them slightly crosseyed, the precise amount depending on the
spread pattern of the high beams themselves. With this
setup, the inner units provide fill-in lighting between the
outer headlights at close ranges; at medium ranges they
converge to illuminate a single spot; and at long ranges
they cross and spread out to illuminate the sides of the
road.
If you have driving lights instead of fog lights and they
are wired to come on with the high beams, you may have even
more aiming possibilities. The driving lights could be aimed
far crosseyed or skewed; either way, they would help
illuminate the sides of the road in curves. In fact, this
pattern also works with fog lights, since you aren't that
concerned with distance (you won't be driving that fast in
fog) but you are concerned with curbs and the like.
Of course, once again there are legal issues. Even though
the high beams are only used when nobody is around but you,
the US gov't still requires you to aim them the way they
think they should be aimed. Again, this probably won't pose
a problem in most areas; cops generally only issue tickets
for poorly aimed headlights where someone is driving a car
that's been crashed and one of the lights is aiming at the
ground or off at 45† or some such. If you have vehicle
inspections, though, headlight aiming is one of the things
they typically check so you would have to aim the headlights
the specified way before an inspection and put them back the
way you want afterward.
US OBLONG HEADLIGHT (CARELLO) IMPROVEMENTS:
Possibilities include replacing the DOT-approved Carello
composite headlights with the earlier 4-headlight system and
installing E-code headlights as described above, or
installing the Euro-spec Cibie oblong XJ-S headlights. Both
options will help visibility considerably, but neither
option is legal in most of the US; converting to the
4-headlight system and using DOT-approved sealed beams is
legal but will not improve visibility.
For a wattage boost (also illegal in the US), J. C.
Whitney offers 9004 bulbs in 100/55W and 100/80W versions.
Carello headlights are made entirely of polycarbonate, which
is the same stuff compact disks are made of; the next time
MSN or AOL sends you a CD-ROM, rather than throw it away you
might test it to see how hard it is to melt. It's good stuff
and the Carello is a pretty large housing, so it's not
likely you will melt the housing using high-wattage bulbs.
Note that, as of this writing, this author has received
several reports of successful use of 100W bulbs in Carello
headlights and no reports of melted parts, but this
nevertheless must be considered a try-at-your-own-risk type
of suggestion.
EUROPEAN OBLONG HEADLIGHT (CIBIE) IMPROVEMENTS:
One possibility is John Goodman's suggestion for
converting to the four headlight system. He describes the
kit from Jaguar, JLM 10357: "All 4 lights are the same and
still use the H4 bulbs. A link wire supplied with the kit
only enables the outer lights on dip. Could easily be wired
for both pairs on dip, but would screw up the dim/dip and
not sure if it's legal. Looks like it's been done this way
for simplicity of owner installation. Although it remains a
mystery why the genuine Jag kit did not have dedicated
driving lights for the inner pair with H1 bulbs."
"If you have converted to four headlamps, the headlamp
washer/wipers are now redundant, but you can utilise the
additional separate pump for the headlamp washers (modify
the wiring) to power one side on your screen washers, works
well." Of course, this only works if you have an '88-on car
with two separate nozzles -- or have added a nozzle in
addition to the original single one.
Unless you prefer the appearance of the four-headlight
system or your existing headlights are damaged, you might as
well keep the European oblong headlights; they have good
patterns, you can get plenty of light from them -- and the
wipers work on them. One of them uses H1 bulbs and the other
uses H4's, either of which can be replaced with nonstandard
upgrades -- see below.
BETTER H4'S: Although considered somewhat exotic
in the US, H4 bulbs are perhaps the most popular light
source for headlights in most other parts of the world. It
should come as no surprise that there are many companies
trying to make improvements on it.
One way to get better visibility is more wattage. J. C.
Whitney offers H4 bulbs in 100/80W, 130/90W, and 165/100W.
The 165/100W's are kinda pricey, but the others barely cost
any more than standard H4's. You can even get the E-code
assemblies from J. C. Whitney with the 100/80W or
130/90W's already installed for only an extra buck or
two.
Also, Vince Chrzanowski reports that he found 100/55W
H4's at his local electronics wholesaler: Eiko Order Code
01019-BP. Eiko products are distributed by:
Wiko, Ltd.
10490 W. 164th Pl.
Orland Park, IL 60462
And, no, he claims there is no typo, the name of the
company is one letter over on the keyboard from the name of
the product line.
Daniel Stern advises that "good quality European bulbs
cost no more than Chaiwanese stuff from JCW or Wiko, and the
wattage ratings on European bulbs are actually correct. The
knockoffs are almost always quite a large bit lower than
stated, never higher. This is not the case with
European-made bulbs."
Note that the light output of light bulbs is not
necessarily proportional to wattage; usually the higher
wattages are more efficient. Suffice it to say that
high-wattage H4 bulbs will definitely do the trick. On high
beam the reflection from a brand-new road sign can be a
little blinding. And when you flash at someone to move over,
they move over!
Besides increased wattage, other H4 variations include
the blue bulbs and xenons described below.
Of course, the nonstandard H4's are harder to find when
one burns out -- but if you buy a spare or two, they don't
take up much space in the trunk or glovebox. Or, you could
just buy a normal 60/55W H4 from a local store to tide you
over until you can get a new specialty bulb shipped to
you.
BETTER H1'S: Many of the options available for
upgrading H4 bulbs also exist for H1's. The standard H1 is
55W, but 100W versions are available in most auto parts
stores and J. C. Whitney sells 100W and 130W versions. Also,
read about xenon bulbs below.
HIGH WATTAGE HEADLIGHTS VS. UK-SPEC DIMMED DIP BEAMS:
Regarding the UK system that operates the dipped beams
at reduced voltage whenever the engine is running, John
Goodman says "It gets all screwed up if you try to install
non-standard brighter wattage bulbs." Regarding the kits
available in the U.K. to convert to the US-style four
headlight system, he says "When I converted my previous XJ-S
to 4 headlights the dim system still works because all 4
lights are the same and still use the H4 bulbs. All lights
have dual filament bulbs, so 4 x 55w on main beam, however
only the outer ones are ever wired up for dipped beam (not
sure if this is a legal reason)."
If you happen to have such a UK-spec car and don't want
to convert to four headlights, one nice option is the
100/55W H4 bulb from Wiko mentioned above. Since the low
beam is still 55W, same as the stock H4's, the dimmed dip
feature will still work as intended.
SEALING NON-SEALED H4 HEADLIGHTS: H4 headlight
assemblies are nothing resembling sealed; in fact, the back
end is open enough you might consider it ventilated. To
prevent moisture getting in and deteriorating the reflector,
the assemblies include rubber boots that fit over the back
end of the headlights. Note, however, that installing this
boot will keep the assembly warmer; this doesn't normally
pose a problem, but if you're using the big-wattage bulbs
you might consider the tradeoffs between how hot the bulb
gets and how big a problem moisture is.
Other cars, including Hondas, use rubber boots that
appear remarkably similar on normal sealed beams. Perhaps
one of these boots could be used when the original H4 boots
are damaged or missing.
SOCKET MELTING: One possible problem with high
wattage bulbs is melting of the plastic socket that plugs
onto the back of the headlight. The solution to that problem
is easy: remove the socket and install the spade connectors
individually. One idea might be to push the spade connectors
all the way through the socket and out the other side before
connecting to the headlight; that way, the wires going
through the socket would clearly indicate which spade
connector goes to which terminal, but the plastic socket
itself would remain dangling on the wires a few inches away
from the headlight.
AUXILIARY LIGHTS -- MORE POWER: The fog/driving
lights on your XJ-S use either H2 or H3 halogen bulbs. H2
bulbs are normally 55W and may be found in local parts
stores with a little looking. For more power, 100W versions
are available from J. C. Whitney.
H3 bulbs are normally 55W and can be purchased just about
anywhere that sells auto parts. However, for a little more
visibility, replacement 100W H3 bulbs are available
everywhere, and you can get 130W versions from J. C.
Whitney.
HIGH WATTAGE HEADLIGHTS -- POWER SUPPLY CONCERNS:
Since watts = amps x volts and automotive bulbs are 12
volt, a 100W bulb will draw over 8 amps and a 130W bulb will
draw nearly 11 amps. Four 130W high beams will draw over 43
amps, or 29 amps more than the stock sealed beams did. You
might wanna consider the capability of your alternator; the
later XJ-S was fitted with a 115-amp unit, but the earlier
ones had 66-amp or 75-amp Lucas units -- and you've still
got electronic fuel injection, windshield wipers, A/C system
fans, etc., etc. to provide power for. Still, this usually
doesn't present a problem, perhaps because you can't use
high beams too much due to oncoming traffic, there's usually
no point to using high beams in the rain when the wipers are
going, and since it's cool after dark the A/C fans are
always on low speed.
You also need to consider the wiring and fuses. See the
suggestion for installing relays, above.
BLUE BULBS: John Elwood says, "Mine is an '86 four
lamp sealed beam system. I replaced the low beams with a $30
H4 conversion kit offered by J. C. Whitney. I ditched the
included bulbs and bought "Crystal Blues" from Pep Boys. Of
course none of this is legal but it still looks really cool.
Also much better visibility." 9004 bulbs are also
available as Crystal Blues.
Emile A. DesRoches, who has the Carello headlights, says,
"The bulbs I run are from Imparts (www.imparts.com)
in St. Louis, both catalog and invoices just list them as
"blue bulbs." They are apparently popular in Germany, with a
blue tint to the glass which makes the light produced
intensely white as opposed to the conventional yellow color.
I've found that the whiter light makes seeing easier
particularly on back roads with little or no lighting. I've
personally had good results with the #9004
55(legal)/100(not) wattage. Neither has been a problem in
terms of heat or excess drain on electrical system or
wiring. After a couple of months with these lights in two
cats, I can testify they're far brighter and easier on the
eyes than the standard yellow-colored halogen. Oddly enough
the bulbs appear to have a gold tinge to them when held up
to the light prior to installation. I do believe they
improve the quality and quantity of light over the typical
halogen application."
Daniel Stern explains the appearance of these bulbs:
"This is a dichroic filter coating. A dichroic coating is
defined as one that reflects one color and
passes its planar opposite. That means that a
blue-pass dichroic filter will reflect yellow (thereby
subtracting yellow from the output spectrum) with the
resultant output light being blue.
"Why did the bulb under discussion appear gold when
peered at in the store? Because it had a blue-pass dichroic
coating on it. This means that the color it reflects will be
a shade of yellow. If the bulb is held up to a light and
peered through, the blue-pass characteristic of this
particular coating will be easily visible.
"The bulbs are marketed under such names as "Blue
Sapphire", "Crystal Blue", "Blue Ion", "EuroBlue", etc. They
are all the same."
Elwood adds, "You apparently at one time could get them
in bizarre colors like green, red, and several other colors
but apparently they were not such hot sellers as blue."
While citations for using E-code headlights with regular
H1 or H4 bulbs in the US are almost unheard of, use of these
blue bulbs can result in serious legal trouble. The package
on a set of Crystal Blue 9004's in a local store says they
are DOT approved in small letters on the back of the card,
but clearly warns on the front that they are for show car
use only and that local laws should be checked before
installing. The bulbs themselves say nothing at all. Stern
clarifies the legal issue in no uncertain terms: "Simply
put: They are illegal in all of the US and all of
Canada, Australia, Europe, Japan... Read the text of
Canadian Vehicle Safety Standard #108 and #108.1. These are
the headlamp specifications for on-road use in Canada. Both
specifications clearly state that all light issuing from the
front of a motor vehicle for illumination purposes must be
white, white-to-yellow, or yellow. The
analogous US Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard,
FMVSS108, contains the same requirement. Federal Motor
Vehicle Safety Standard 108, Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety
Standards 108 and 108.1, and ECE Regulations 5, 6, 8, 20 and
37, all call for "white" light. A halogen or tungsten bulb
that emits blue light is deemed a blue light, and is illegal
on non-emergency vehicles in Europe, the US, and Canada."
While using normal H4 headlights might not get the cops'
attention, these bulbs are obviously and obnoxiously bluer
than other headlights from a mile away so harassment from
law enforcement will be constant and unceasing.
Besides the legal issues, Stern points out they're not
really a good idea anyway. "The output spectrum of halogen
headlamp bulbs includes very little light in the blue
frequency range. These blue bulbs have a filter coating on
them that allows only the blue frequencies through the
filter. Because very little light is produced by a halogen
bulb in this range in the first place, it is only this very
small amount -- a tiny fraction of the total amount of light
produced by a halogen bulb filament -- that ever reaches the
road. You can confirm this with a good-quality light meter;
even a very apparently-bright blue bulb actually throws very
little light. This illuminates -- so to speak -- the
difference between the signal image (what you see when you
look at an illuminated light) and the emitted flux (what is
thrown from the light to illuminate, either directly or via
a reflector and/or lens, surrounding items).
"Blue is the shortest wavelength/highest frequency color
of visible light, and, as such, scatters the most readily."
This means there is more glare from fog, raindrops, snow,
etc. with blue bulbs.
So how come the fancy HID headlights are so good, when
they also appear blue? "Genuine arc-discharge headlamps run
with a very purplish-white character that reminds of the
color of the electronic flash on your camera (because it is
the same technology). But this light is, for lack of better
terms, "white with a discrete blue component". That is to
say, the vast majority of the output light from an HID
headlamp is a good, solid white that is closer to the
white of the sun than most halogen bulbs' output spectra can
reach. And, in addition, there is a separate output spectrum
of blue-green to blue-violet frequencies that is a byproduct
of metal-halide lamps such as the HID lamps currently used
in cars. That blue-green to blue-violet frequency band is
"throwaway" light in an HID headlamp.
"The blue appearance of the two kinds of lamps arise from
two wholly separate phenomena. The main thing is to keep in
mind that the blue signal image of an HID headlamp is a
throwaway byproduct of a light source that emits a great big
lot of very nice white light, while the blue signal image of
a tinted (by whatever means) incandescent lamp is the meager
blue output left when you've cut out all the rest of the
usable light."
Stern talks about blue bulbs in more detail on his www
site: http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/blue_bulbs/
YELLOW BULBS: As mentioned above, yellow is a
legal color for headlights, with some areas permitting a
yellowish shade of white while others permit downright
yellow. This is for good reason; Daniel Stern says, "Until
the mid 1990s, headlamps in France were required to produce
yellow light. This was accomplished in one of several ways:
yellow headlamp lens, yellow glass balloon in front of the
bulb, yellow glass balloon as part of H4 bulbs, and dichroic
filter coatings on halogen bulbs. This last method was the
best, since it produced the required yellow color with very
little loss in absolute light intensity. Yellow glass
filters caused up to a 15 percent reduction in absolute
intensity. In the mid '90s (1994, if I recall correctly) the
yellow-light requirement was dropped for new cars in order
to bring France into line with general European Community
regulations. Yellow bulbs can still be had and used on
pre-'94 cars, however.
"It's not directly apparent that yellow is a magically
great color for lights. It's what happens when you subtract
blue from an auto lamp. Blue is the shortest wavelength and,
as such, scatters the most readily. When blue light strikes
water (rain, fog, snow) it scatters in all directions and
makes on-road vision very difficult. Blue also is a very
difficult color of light to look at if it is at all
intense...it stimulates the reaction we call "glare".
"So the French figured to remove the blue from the output
spectrum of their vehicles' front lamps. The opposite of
blue being yellow, the result was French yellow headlamps.
There haven't been any recent comparitive studies, but
yellow lamps always subjectively ranked as decidedly better
in poor weather and lower in glare than white ones, and this
matches my own experimental experience with fog lamps and
headlamps that produce yellow light.
"One problem with this conclusion as applied to headlamps
in France is that the dichroic technology came along very
shortly before France rescinded the yellow-light
requirement. Therefore, the lamps that were being compared
with white lamps were almost universally yellow by dint of
earlier methods (yellow glass) which reduced the absolute
intensity of the beam, which may or may not have had a large
part in reducing the glare. Because the requirement for
yellow light no longer exists (though such light is optional
in many countries) we probably will never know the vagaries
of the answer to this question. Suffice it to say that
yellow light makes a better fog lamp if you intend to use
the fog lamp in poor-visibility conditions without any
drawback in dry conditions, and modern dichroic techniques
of "yellowing" the light take away some of the drawbacks
(reduced amount of light) that used to be a problem with
yellow lights.
"These days there are quite a number of dichroic
(yellow-pass) lighting products on the market. There are
bulbs with this coating, as well as auxiliary lamps whose
lenses are so treated. There's nothing the matter with doing
it either way (though my preference is for the coating to be
on the bulb, because this makes it easy to switch between
clear/white light and yellow light as desired).
"There are two commonly available levels of
dichroic-filter coating strength on auto headlamp bulbs: A
light coating which "skims" the highest-frequency blues off
of the output spectrum, causing a yellow-tinted white light,
and a heavier coating that blocks all of the blue
frequencies from being output, causing the full-depth
yellow light that we used to see in French headlamps.
The deeper yellow tint is more effective at cutting through
obscured environments (rain, fog, snow, dust), but the
lighter coated bulbs meet international definitions of
"white" light for headlamps. I've done considerable
experimentation with various mixes of bulbs and my own
preference for maximum visibility in bad weather is:
- Lightly-filtered headlamp bulbs to produce
legally-white light that gives considerably less
glareback in bad weather
- heavily-filtered fog lamp bulbs to produce yellow
light that does not glare back at all in bad weather
(full-strength yellow is legal in auxiliary lights)
"I like clear bulbs in driving lamps, because if you're
worried about glareback, you're not using your driving
lamps!"
So if the bulbs with blue dichroic coatings appear gold
when you look at the bulb itself, what do the bulbs with
yellow dicroic coatings look like? "The legal-yellow ones
reflect a light purple, while the full-tint ("French")
yellow ones reflect a deep blue."
HIR: Howard Chu mentions another advance in
headlights: "GE's HIR bulbs, which have a bulb coating that
reflects infrared. This again allows visible light to escape
unhindered, but keeps more heat in the bulb. The point here
is that the filament glows because it's hot, so if you can
keep more heat in the bulb, you can keep the filament
glowing brighter with less electricity." For those of us who
really don't care how much electricity our headlights use,
this is of no importance whatsoever; the same legal light
output limits apply regardless, so makers of HIR lights must
design them to produce the same amount of light -- the only
benefit is that they use less electricity. If you're willing
to violate the light limits, conventional high-wattage bulbs
work just fine.
XENON: It's a gas, but trying to use the word to
describe a lighting type is just asking for confusion.
Daniel Stern says, "In the field of lighting, a "Xenon lamp"
is a gas-discharge (or High Intensity Discharge)-sourced
light, just like the light source in your camera's
electronic flash. And we're seeing more and more such lights
(under a plethora of brand names, which makes things even
more confusing) on today's cars. But, we also have
some companies using "Xenon" in their trade names for
halogen bulbs that have a higher percentage of Xenon in
their fill gas mix." So, either type headlight could
properly be called "xenon", but one has a filament and the
other doesn't. The cost difference is also about a factor of
100.
"XENON" HALOGENS: Nathaniel Musselman found that
Hella offers bulbs that look and work just like standard H1
or H4 bulbs except that they have xenon gas in them. They
claim that the use of xenon gas improves light output and
eliminates UV radiation that may damage plastic lenses and
housings. Hella describes these bulbs on their web site at
http://www.hella.co.nz/xenon.html
Note that this site claims repeatedly that these bulbs
are a plug-in upgrade, but that's because the site is in New
Zealand and the guys setting it up forgot that the web is
international; if the car is US-spec, they will definitely
not plug in unless you have already upgraded to E-code
headlights as described above.
Daniel Stern says, "The gas mix in such a bulb does have
a higher percentage of Xenon, but it's not exclusively
Xenon. Also, the gas mix in the new type bulbs is under
higher pressure. This allows the filament to run hotter,
which produces more light. It's not a knock-your-socks-off
improvement, but it is certainly noticeable.
"The newest types of bulbs all use this new gas mix
formulation (which also is under a higher pressure). For
instance, the H7 is one of the newest headlamp bulbs. All H7
bulbs have this newly-tweaked, higher-pressure gas mix, and
the results have been good, with the H7 achieving a higher
luminous flux (amount of available usable light) from a
given wattage (55w in this case) than was achievable in a
bulb of this general type with the old gas mix under the old
lower pressure. So after a few years' experience with H7s,
the manufacturers have moved to update the older traditional
bulb types with the new gas mix under the new, higher
pressure.
"Note also that Hella does not make bulbs. They
buy them from Osram and Philips and put them in yellow
"Hella" boxes. Hella's US line currently excludes these
Xenon bulbs, but Wagner sells their "Xenon BriteLite" line
of US-type bulbs (HB1/9004, HB3/9005, HB4/9006, HB5/9007),
and several reputable European makers (Osram, Philips, Jahn,
Narva) make Xenon-filled European-type bulbs (H1, H3, H4--no
H2s yet, and the H4s work in HB2/9003 US-spec lamps)."
HID (XENON): Gas-discharge xenon lights, such as
the strobe bulb in your timing light or camera flash, work
by firing an arc through a tube containing xenon gas. HID
headlights work similarly by providing a continuous arc to
provide a continuous light. These lights have no filament;
the arc travels through the gas itself to produce the light.
The same arc provides high and low beam; the arc is
physically moved from one position to another by application
of a magnetic field, so the light doesn't really turn on and
off when switching between high and low beams but rather
"moves". The HID headlight system provides a purplish light
and gives more light than halogen headlights for one third
the wattage.
The Sylvania web site has several interesting items on
high-tech headlight systems, some of which might be
applicable to the XJ-S: http://www.sylvania.com/auto/
Sylvania makes HID systems only for cars designed
specifically for them such as the Lincoln Mark VIII, but a
Sylvania rep says "we know that PIAA and KC Hilites both
offer HID units for the aftermarket (we believe for off-road
use), although the prices are quite high." That off-road use
comment is probably a legal technicality. The note about the
prices is no lie, though, HID's cost in the
thousands.
John Elwood: "J. C. Whitney sells real HIDs for about
$1500. I'd rather buy another MG..."
Nathaniel Musselman says you can also visit http://www.kenpubs.co.uk/iamed/road_VehicleSafety/Hege_Bosch.html
Daniel Stern: "HID headlamps, which have a bluish
appearance, are legal. It's because they're not actually
blue, they just appear more blue than the halogen lamps
surrounding them. They are higher in blue and blue-green
wavelengths, but this is specifically noted and approved in
CMVSS108 and 108.1 (And, for US readers, in FMVSS108)."
Someone named "Michael" on the online Corvette discussion
list gave this description: "The HID headlamps are
essentially mini versions of the lamps under which you watch
your favorite team do battle at night. And, just like the
stadium lights, the natural tendency of these lamps is to
take minutes to warm up. So, the lamps use a bunch of
sophisticated electronics to warm them up quickly and keep
them operating steadily at the several-thousand (or so) volt
level, all while being powered by the notoriously dirty and
varying car voltage (12-14 volts). Unfortunately, these
electronics and power supplys cost $, weight, and real
estate. Couple that with the already deep optical path of an
HID, and you are talking one big (i.e., long/deep),
heavy, and expensive package. Two per car,
please...
"Advantages? A much cleaner light, designed to illuminate
objects in a dark environment with the strongest possible
contrast. The output spectrum of these lamps has been
"tuned" to just the spectrum needed for the task, and the
technology goes places where no glowing metal filament has
ever been. The results need to be seen from the driver's
seat to be believed. Way, way, cool. The twenty-first
century headlamp.
"Disadvantages? The usual suspects: Weight (big
penalty), cost (massive penalty), size
(tremendous penalty), electrical noise (beaucoup
shielding for the lamp assy. and engine compartment is
required to keep your delicate little OBD II-compliant
computer happy.) This fabulous,
Close-Encounters-of-the-X-Files-Kind light also has some
serious potential to blind oncoming drivers and anything
else. Note how many cars using these lamps have some type of
suspension leveling device. The backlash has already started
in Europe, where drivers are complaining about being blinded
by BMW's overloaded with a trunk full of beer."
ALTERNATIVE CONTROL SCHEMES: Besides upgrading the
hardware in the headlight systems, there may be benefits to
changing the ways in which the headlights can be operated.
It would be possible to add dozens of schemes here, each
complete with wiring schematics, thereby significantly
adding to the poundage of this book. Rather than going that
route, I have decided to merely put forth some of the more
intriguing ideas that have occurred to me or have been sent
to me, and leave it to the owner to figure out how to
implement them if he so desires. Basically, any of them can
be achieved with a switch or two, a couple of relays, and a
couple hours of fiddling with the wiring.
John Napoli suggests rewiring the car so that the low
beams remain on when the high beams are on, so all the
filaments are putting out light. The early European
headlamps with two H1 bulbs did this from the factory, and
show how easy the rewiring is -- simply adding a jumper
between terminals 56 and 56b on the main/dip relay. However,
perhaps it should be noted that those early cars had
separate bulbs for high and low beams, while later cars have
both filaments within the same bulb. Overheating or early
bulb failure might be the result. Hence, try this
modification at your own risk.
If you have the 4-headlight system, Daniel Stern suggests
you can go nuts with control schemes: "In a quad-round
system, there are four holes and six filaments.
Nobody ever said you have to have two matching pairs of
lamps, or that you can't rewire the setup to create 3 beam
distributions rather than just two (or even five if
you're adventurous)." Just as an illustration, one of
Stern's alternative setups is to provide three levels of
light: standard low and high beams, plus a "mid beam"
arrangement with the outer headlights on high beam but the
inner headlights off. This setup makes good sense if the
inner high beams are an H1 assembly with really long-range
capability, and it only requires one switch and a relay.
Using all four high beams will provide truly excellent
visibility while you are alone on the road but the H1's can
be turned off to avoid blinding another driver you are
following at a distance while still keeping the outer
headlights on high beam to provide good visibility at closer
ranges. And since you have switched from four headlights to
two, that guy thinks you have switched to low beam already
and doesn't get mad at you for blinding him.
Some alternative control schemes involve the fog lights
or driving lights, whichever is fitted. To see in fog, it is
essential that the fog lights be the only lights on;
main or low beams just cause glare. One idea for convenient
fog light operation is to rewire the car so that you can put
the headlight switch in one position and use the stalk
switch to flick back and forth between low beams with fog
lights and fog lights only. That way, when you come out of
the fog bank, you can just flick the stalk to bring on the
low beams for better visibility in clear air, and just as
easily turn them back off when you encounter the next patch
of fog. There's really no need to be able to get to high
beams without putting the master lighting switch in another
position, since whenever there's fog around you won't be
driving fast enough to need high beams.
Note that you might need to check local laws here. At one
time, it was illegal in some states to drive at night with
fog lights only, fog or not. Hopefully, more rational
legislators have repealed such laws... what am I saying?
There's no such thing as rationality in legislation, or the
stupid laws wouldn't have been written in the first place!
Maybe you can get by with a set of pilot lights; maybe the
cops are stupid enough to think the headlights are "on" --
at least long enough for you to get past.
If the car is fitted with driving lights instead of fog
lights, it might make sense to rewire the XJ-S so that all
the headlights and driving lights work at once. In fact,
later US-spec XJ-S's came with a master lighting switch with
an additional position that operates all six lights. It may
be possible to retrofit this switch into the earlier cars.
Or, you can simply defeat the "inhibit relay" in these
earlier cars, allowing high beams and driving lights to be
used simultaneously; it might also be a good idea to add
relays to prevent overloading any circuits.
With the options available for improving the headlights,
there really is little reason to operate the driving lights
simultaneously to get more light; you should be able
to get plenty of light from the main beams. However, the
driving lights might make excellent "cornering lights" if
you aim them towards the sides of the road.
In many states, there once were laws that prohibit there
being more than four headlights on a car. Jaguar's intention
for the inhibit relay was to prevent use of the high beams
while the fog/driving lights are on, thereby complying with
the law. It is unknown how these laws have evolved now that
the law requiring standardized headlights has finally been
eliminated (thank God!). The owner is advised to check his
state's current regulations before rewiring for all six
headlights to operate at once.
If your desired wiring scheme requires another switch,
John Goodman points out that the UK cars have a different
headlight switch which can be pushed in to turn on "fog
lights" at the rear of the car; this push facility could be
used for whatever your little heart desires, leaving your
dash uncluttered with additional switches.
PILOT LIGHTS/CITY LIGHTS/PARKING LIGHTS/WHATEVER:
As mentioned in the secion on Electrical,
non-North American cars typically use low-wattage white
bulbs within the headlights as markers, while cars in the US
typically use the dimmer of two filaments within the front
turn signals. However, according to Daniel Stern, "Note that
city lights are a legal form of parking lamp in the
USA and Canada. Parking lamps can be amber or white,
and they are permitted to be nested with the headlamps. The
latest XJ sedans use city lights rather than amber parking
lamps."
This, of course, suggests an interesting possibility for
modification of US-spec cars: disconnect the parking light
filaments in the front turn signal housings and wire up
pilot lights in the headlights instead. If you are replacing
four round headlights with E-code units, you might select
units such as the Cibies that include pilot lights. Or you
can replace the whole assembly with the Cibie oblong
headlights that have pilot lights. If you're that kind of
guy, just drill a big hole in the side of the cheap J. C.
Whitney H4 headlights and tape a little bulb into it.
Stern offers several advantages of city lights over the
US-style parking lights: "If a headlamp ever malfunctions,
oncoming traffic still sees you as a double-track vehicle.
Plus, it makes your front turn signals much clearer because
they now go "bright-off-bright-off" instead of
"bright-dim-bright-dim" when the lights are on. Yep, another
aspect of lighting that the Europeans got right and we
didn't. City lights are especially useful if you have fog
lamps. On foggy days, you can put on the city lights which
will show other drivers very clearly where your car is, and
switch on the fog lamps so you can see.
On to
Air
Conditioner/Heater Modifications
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